1950-1959 Buick Roadmaster Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement Guide
If your key is sticking or your classic Roadmaster won't start, the ignition lock cylinder could be the problem.
- A failing ignition lock cylinder can leave you stranded; address symptoms like a sticking key promptly.
- Replacement is a simple DIY job for most 1950s Buick Roadmaster owners, typically requiring only a paperclip and the key.
- For this classic vehicle, a new aftermarket part from a reputable brand like Standard Ignition is the most reliable and available option.
- The new cylinder will come with a new set of keys; your original ignition key will no longer work.
Is Your Ignition Lock Cylinder Failing?
For a classic car like the 1950-1959 Buick Roadmaster, ignition problems can often be traced back to the simple, mechanical lock cylinder. After decades of use, the internal pins and tumblers wear down. Here are the common signs that it's time for a replacement:
- Key is Hard to Insert or Remove: If you have to jiggle the key to get it in or out, the cylinder's internal parts are likely worn or misaligned.
- Key Won't Turn: The most obvious symptom is when the key goes in but refuses to turn, preventing you from starting the car. This can leave you stranded.
- Car Won't Start: You might turn the key and nothing happens—no dash lights, no click, no sound. While this can have other causes, a failed cylinder won't allow the electrical signal to reach the starter.
- Key Feels Loose or Rattles: A severely worn cylinder may feel loose and can even rattle while you drive, which can be a sign of significant wear.
Don't Get Stranded
An ignition lock cylinder usually gives warning signs before it fails completely. If you're experiencing any of these symptoms, it's best to replace the part soon to avoid being stuck somewhere with a car that won't start.
Choosing a New Aftermarket Ignition Cylinder
For a vehicle from the 1950s, finding a New Old Stock (NOS) OEM part is nearly impossible and would be very expensive. The most practical and reliable solution is a new aftermarket part from a trusted brand.
Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products) is a well-regarded brand that has been making quality automotive parts since 1919. Their ignition lock cylinders are designed to match the original's fit and function, often using durable materials like brass tumblers and die-cast zinc cores to ensure long life. For a classic like the Roadmaster, a Standard Ignition part is a dependable choice.
Cost of Replacing Your Ignition Lock Cylinder
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition) | $27.84 |
| Shop Labor | $75 - $150 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the ignition lock cylinder myself?
Yes, this is a very feasible DIY job for most owners with basic tools. The process for these older GM vehicles typically involves inserting the key, turning it to a specific position, and using a paperclip or small pick to depress a release pin in a small hole on the face of the cylinder. Once the pin is depressed, the cylinder can be pulled out. There are several videos and forum posts for similar 1950s GM cars that show this process.
🎬 Watch this step-by-step guide on removing the ignition lock cylinder.Will my original keys work with the new cylinder?
No. The new ignition lock cylinder will come with a new set of keys. You will need to use these new keys for your ignition. Your original keys will still be needed for the doors and trunk, unless you have a locksmith re-key the new cylinder to match your old keys.
Are there any recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) for this part?
No. Recalls and TSBs as we know them today were not a common practice for vehicles from the 1950-1959 era. No official recalls or bulletins from the NHTSA exist for this part on your Roadmaster.
Is it the lock cylinder or the ignition switch?
The lock cylinder is the mechanical part your key goes into. The ignition switch is the electrical component behind it that the cylinder turns. If the problem is purely mechanical (key won't turn, is hard to insert), the cylinder is the likely culprit. If the key turns fine but you have electrical issues (no power, intermittent starting), the switch might be the problem. For this vehicle, it's often easiest to start by replacing the more common failure point: the lock cylinder.
Helpful Videos
Technical Specifications
Chrome plated finish, die-cast zinc core, brass tumblers. Includes two new keys.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.