2003-2006 Expedition & Navigator Luggage Rack: Fixing Leaks and Swapping Parts

Symptoms of a Failing Luggage Rack Assembly

The most common and frustrating symptom of a failing luggage rack on the 2003-2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator is not related to its ability to carry cargo, but to water leaking into the vehicle's interior.

1. Water Leaks Inside the Cabin

This is the number one issue with these roof racks. Over time, the rubber gaskets under the rack's mounting feet dry out, crack, and fail. Water seeps past the failed seal and follows the mounting bolts into the vehicle. From there, it travels along the inside of the roof and drips from the headliner in various places, including:

• The A-pillar grab handles (the handles near the windshield).
• Overhead A/C vents.
• The overhead console or dome lights.
• The corners of the headliner, often staining the fabric.

2. Visible Cracks and UV Damage

Years of sun exposure can make the plastic components of the rack, especially the end caps and mounting feet, brittle and cracked. This is more than a cosmetic issue; a cracked mounting foot can compromise the rack's strength and is a primary entry point for water.

3. Loose Rails or Wind Noise

If the mounting bolts have loosened over time, you might notice the side rails are physically loose to the touch. This can cause rattling or a noticeable increase in wind noise, especially at highway speeds. This is a serious safety concern if you plan to carry any load on the rack.

4. Peeling Chrome (Lincoln Navigator)

The Lincoln Navigator version of the rack often features chrome-plated plastic. It's common for this chrome finish to bubble, peel, or flake off over time, which is a cosmetic issue but can indicate the underlying plastic is aging.

Buying a Used Luggage Rack Assembly

Since Ford has discontinued the new OEM side rails for these models, a used part is your most likely option. Here’s what to inspect carefully before buying:

1. Check the Mounting Feet Gaskets: Flip the rail over and inspect the rubber gaskets on the bottom of each mounting foot. This is the most critical component. The rubber should be soft and pliable, not hard, flat, or cracked. If the gaskets look questionable, you MUST apply a sealant like RTV silicone during installation.
2. Inspect for Cracks: Closely examine all plastic areas, paying special attention to the mounting feet where the bolts pass through. Flex the part slightly to reveal any hairline cracks. Do not buy a rack with cracked mounting feet.
3. Look for UV Damage: Check for a chalky, faded appearance on the black plastic parts. While some fading is normal, extreme brittleness is a red flag.
4. Verify Straightness: Lay the rail on a flat surface to ensure it hasn't been bent or twisted from an accident or improper loading.
5. Confirm All Parts are Included: Ensure the sale includes the side rails, all plastic end caps, and ideally, the original mounting bolts. Finding these small pieces separately can be difficult.

Replacement and Leak Repair Procedure

Whether you are replacing a damaged rack or simply fixing a leak, the process is the same. This is a very DIY-friendly job.

Installation Difficulty: 2 out of 5

Estimated Time: 1 hour

Tools Needed:

• Torx Bit Set (T40 is common, but have others like T25/T27 on hand)
• Ratchet
• Plastic Trim Removal Tool or Flathead Screwdriver (use with caution)
• Torque Wrench (lb-ft or Nm)
• RTV Silicone Sealant or Teflon Tape
• Cleaning supplies (rubbing alcohol, rags)

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Remove End Caps: Using a plastic trim tool, carefully pry off the plastic covers at the front and rear of the side rails to expose the mounting bolts.
2. Remove Mounting Bolts: Use a Torx bit (likely a T40) to remove the bolts securing the rail to the roof. There will be several along the length of each rail.
3. Remove the Rail: Once all bolts are out, the side rail should lift straight off the vehicle.
4. Clean the Area: Thoroughly clean the roof surface around the mounting holes. Remove all old gasket material, dirt, and wax. Use rubbing alcohol for a final wipe-down to ensure a clean surface for the new seal.
5. Prepare for Sealing (CRITICAL STEP): This is the key to preventing future leaks. You have two options:
   • RTV Silicone: Apply a small, continuous bead of clear or black automotive RTV silicone sealant around each mounting hole on the roof.
   • Teflon Tape: Wrap the threads of each mounting bolt with 2-3 layers of Teflon tape.
   For the best protection, you can do both. Applying RTV to the roof and also using Teflon tape on the bolts provides two layers of defense against water.
6. Install the New/Used Rail: Place the replacement rail onto the roof, aligning the mounting feet with the holes.
7. Install and Torque Bolts: Hand-thread all bolts first to avoid cross-threading. Snug them down, then use a torque wrench to tighten them to spec. A common torque value for these bolts is 16 Nm (11.8 lb-ft). Do not overtighten, as you can damage the threaded inserts in the roof.
8. Reinstall End Caps: Snap the plastic end caps back into place.

Cost Comparison

The side rails are the primary component that fails; crossbars are often sold separately.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)