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A Practical Guide to the 1937-1945 Chrysler Imperial Ignition Contact Set

Keep your classic Imperial's ignition system reliable with the right parts and knowledge.

4 minutes to read 1937-1945 Chrysler Imperial
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
1 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$90-$150
⚠️ Drivable, but... — You can, but the engine will run poorly and could stall at any moment, potentially leaving you stranded.
Key Takeaways
  • For a 1937-1945 Imperial, new aftermarket points from a brand like Standard Ignition are the most practical and cost-effective choice.
  • Always replace the condenser at the same time as the ignition contact set to ensure longevity and prevent premature failure.
  • Correctly setting the point gap with a feeler gauge is critical for proper engine timing and performance.
  • Symptoms like rough running, misfiring, or a no-start condition often point to a failure in the points system.
The ignition contact set, commonly known as "points," is a mechanical switch located inside the distributor of your Chrysler Imperial. As the distributor shaft rotates, a cam pushes a small rubbing block on the points, causing them to open and close. When the points are closed, they complete a circuit that allows the ignition coil to build up a magnetic field. When they open, the circuit is broken, causing the coil's magnetic field to collapse and generate the high-voltage spark that is sent to the spark plugs. This system was the standard for decades and is a critical component for your engine to run.

Signs of a Failing Ignition Contact Set

Ignition points are a wear item and require regular service. When they start to fail, your Imperial will let you know. The contacts can become pitted, burned, or misaligned, and the rubbing block can wear down. Common symptoms include:

  • Engine Won't Start: A complete failure of the points can prevent the ignition coil from generating a spark, meaning the engine will crank but never start.
  • Rough Running and Misfiring: Worn or dirty points can cause an inconsistent spark, leading to a rough idle, engine misfires, and hesitation during acceleration. This is often one of the last symptoms before a complete failure.
  • Backfiring: Incorrect timing from worn points can cause the engine to backfire through the carburetor or exhaust.
  • Engine Stalling: The car may start and run but stall unexpectedly, especially as it heats up, if the points are failing.

Diagnosing the Issue

These symptoms can also be caused by other failing ignition components, such as the condenser, ignition coil, distributor cap, or rotor. It is common practice to replace the condenser at the same time as the ignition contact set.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Part

For a vehicle from the 1937-1945 era, finding New Old Stock (NOS) Mopar parts is extremely difficult and often very expensive. The most practical and reliable option for a driver is a new aftermarket ignition contact set.

Brand Spotlight: Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products)

Standard Motor Products (SMP) has been a major manufacturer of ignition components for American vehicles for many decades. For classic domestic cars like the Chrysler Imperial, their parts are widely available and generally considered a reliable choice. While quality on some modern imported car parts can be inconsistent, their legacy lines for vehicles like yours are typically well-regarded. Given the limited options for this specific part, Standard Ignition is a dependable go-to brand.

Typical Replacement Costs

The cost to replace an ignition contact set is relatively low, especially for DIYers. The main cost for professional installation is labor.

Part TypePart CostLabor CostTotal Estimated Cost
New Aftermarket (Standard Ignition)$21.53 - $29.38$90 - $150$111.53 - $179.38
New OEM (NOS)$50 - $150+ (if found)$90 - $150$140 - $300+

Cost estimates are based on a typical 1-hour labor charge at $90-$150/hour. NOS part prices are highly variable and depend on rarity and condition.

Pro Tip: Electronic Ignition Conversion

For owners who drive their Imperial frequently and want to reduce maintenance, converting to an electronic ignition is a popular upgrade. These kits replace the points and condenser with a solid-state module, eliminating the need for regular adjustment. However, a properly maintained original points system is very effective and reliable.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What are ignition points and a condenser?

Ignition points are a mechanical switch that triggers the ignition coil. The condenser is a small capacitor connected in parallel with the points. Its job is to absorb the surge of electricity when the points open, preventing a large arc that would quickly burn and destroy the points. It also helps the coil's magnetic field collapse more quickly, which creates a stronger spark.

How often should I replace the ignition points?

For a classic car, a general rule of thumb is to inspect and adjust the points annually or every 5,000-10,000 miles. Because they are a wear item, many owners replace them as part of a regular tune-up, even if they haven't failed completely. It's wise to keep a spare set and the necessary tools in your car for emergencies.

What does 'setting the gap' or 'adjusting the dwell' mean?

The 'gap' is the maximum distance the points open. This gap is set with the points' rubbing block on the highest point of the distributor cam lobe and is measured with a feeler gauge. This setting is critical. 'Dwell' is the amount of time, measured in degrees of distributor rotation, that the points remain closed. Adjusting the gap directly changes the dwell. An incorrect gap or dwell will affect ignition timing and engine performance.

Can I still get original Mopar parts for my Imperial?

Finding new, original Mopar ignition points from the 1937-1945 period is very rare. These parts are considered New Old Stock (NOS) and typically only appear on auction sites or at specialty swap meets at a premium price. For regular driving, a new production aftermarket part is the more sensible choice.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: CH15V 2098244 CS-13

The most critical specification is the point gap. For most American 8-cylinder engines of this era, a typical gap setting is between 0.018 and 0.020 inches. Always consult a service manual for your specific engine if available.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Mar 31, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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