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Engine Mount Guide for the 1955-1960 Chevrolet Bel Air

Deciding between a stock rubber feel and performance polyurethane is the first step to securing your Bel Air's engine.

4 minutes to read 1955-1960 Chevrolet Bel Air
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
2.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$150-$300
Used OEM Price
Not Recommended
⚠️ Drivable, but... — Yes, but it should be repaired immediately to prevent damage to other components like the transmission, exhaust, or throttle linkage.
Key Takeaways
  • For a stock ride, choose rubber mounts; for performance-modified cars, choose polyurethane but expect more vibration.
  • Budget aftermarket brands like Anchor, DEA, and Westar have a reputation for a short lifespan and potential fitment issues.
  • Replacing all mounts at once is the recommended practice, as they wear at a similar rate.
  • For cars with engine swaps or more power, converting to a modern side-mount system is a common and recommended upgrade for strength.
Engine mounts secure your Bel Air's engine to the frame of the car. For the 1955-1960 models, the original V8 setup used a three-point system, with two mounts at the front of the engine and two mounts at the rear attached to the bellhousing of the transmission. These mounts are made of rubber bonded to metal plates. Their job is to absorb the engine's vibration for a smoother ride and to hold the engine in place as it produces torque. Without them, the engine's vibration would shake the entire car, and the engine could move excessively in the engine bay.

Symptoms of a Failing Engine Mount

The engine mounts on a classic car like the Bel Air are subject to wear from age, heat, and engine fluids. The rubber can dry out, crack, or become soaked with oil and turn soft. When a mount fails, the symptoms are usually obvious.

  • Excessive Vibration: This is the most common sign. You'll feel a rough idle or shaking through the floor and steering wheel that wasn't there before.
  • Clunking or Banging Noises: Loud clunks when you accelerate, decelerate, or put the car in gear often mean the engine is moving and hitting other parts. This indicates a severe failure.
  • Visible Engine Movement: Have a helper put the car in gear with the brakes on and lightly press the gas. If you see the engine lift or rock more than an inch or two, your mounts are worn. The left side mount is often the first to fail due to engine torque.
  • Exhaust Dragging: On these cars, failure of the rear bellhousing mounts can cause the back of the engine and transmission to sag, making the exhaust system hang low enough to scrape on speed bumps.

A Note on Historical Recalls

In 1971, GM issued a massive recall for 6.7 million vehicles from 1965-1970 due to engine mount failures that could cause the engine to lift and pull the throttle wide open. While your 1955-1960 Bel Air is not part of this specific recall, it highlights the potential danger of a completely failed mount from this era. A broken mount should be replaced immediately.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Mount

For a 1955-1960 Bel Air, you have two main paths: standard rubber mounts for a stock feel or performance polyurethane mounts for modified cars. Original OEM parts are now considered New Old Stock (NOS) and are very difficult to find.

Tier 1: Performance (Polyurethane)

Brands: Energy Suspension, Whiteline, Lakewood, Quick Time

These mounts use polyurethane, a much stiffer material than rubber. They are ideal for Bel Airs with higher horsepower engines or for drivers who want maximum performance. The stiff material drastically reduces engine movement, ensuring more power gets to the wheels. However, there is a significant trade-off: you will feel much more engine vibration inside the car. These are not recommended if you want a comfortable, quiet ride.

Tier 2: Economy (Standard Rubber)

Brands: Anchor, DEA, Westar, Pioneer Cable

These brands offer direct replacements for the original rubber mounts at a low cost. They aim to restore the original smooth ride. However, be aware that owner experiences with these brands are very mixed. Many classic car owners report that the rubber on these budget-friendly mounts is lower quality than the originals and can fail quickly, sometimes within a year. Fitment can also be an issue, sometimes requiring you to modify the part to get it to line up correctly. While the price is attractive, the longevity may be short.

A Common Fix for Economy Mounts

Because reproduction rubber mounts are known to separate from their metal plates, some owners modify them for longer life. They drill holes through the entire mount and install a bolt with a nut. This physically holds the mount together even if the rubber bond fails, preventing the engine from lifting excessively.

Cost to Replace a Bel Air Engine Mount

Part Type Price Range
New Aftermarket (Rubber or Poly) $2.84 - $97.40
New OEM (NOS) Varies, typically $75+ if found
Shop Labor $150 - $300

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I use rubber or polyurethane mounts?

If your Bel Air is stock or you value a smooth, comfortable ride, use rubber mounts. If your car is modified with a high-performance engine and you prioritize performance over comfort, polyurethane is the better choice but expect more vibration.

What are side mounts and do I need them?

Side mounts are a modern design that bolts to the sides of the engine block instead of the front. Many Bel Air owners with upgraded engines and transmissions convert to side mounts because they are stronger and provide better clearance for things like headers and modern accessories. This conversion requires installing new brackets on your car's frame.

Can I replace just one bad mount?

You can, but it's not recommended. Engine mounts wear out at a similar rate. If one has failed, the others are likely weak and will be put under extra stress by the new mount, causing them to fail soon after. It is best to replace them as a set.

Are the cheap aftermarket rubber mounts worth it?

It depends on your expectations. Brands like Anchor, DEA, and Westar are inexpensive, but many users in classic car forums report they do not last long. If you are on a tight budget they will work, but be prepared for the possibility of replacing them again sooner than you'd like.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 3836325 3714358

Original mounting system consists of front engine mounts and rear bellhousing mounts. Aftermarket options include stock-style rubber, performance polyurethane, and conversion kits for modern side-style mounts.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Apr 19, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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