Universal Joint Guide for the 1957-1964 Buick Roadmaster
Your Roadmaster's driveshaft design changed significantly during this era; here's what you need to know to get the right U-joint.
- First, confirm if your Roadmaster has a torque tube (1957-58) or an open driveshaft (1959-64) to ensure you get the right parts.
- A clunking noise when shifting into gear or a vibration that increases with speed are critical signs of a failing U-joint.
- Choose a high-quality, greasable aftermarket U-joint from a reputable brand like Dana Spicer for long-term reliability.
- Do not drive with a suspected bad U-joint; a complete failure can cause the driveshaft to detach, leading to a dangerous situation and costly damage.
Important: Check Your Roadmaster's Drivetrain Type
The 1957-1964 period saw major changes in the Buick Roadmaster's design. Before ordering a universal joint, you must identify your car's specific driveshaft setup, as a standard U-joint may not be what you need.
- 1957-1958 Models: These cars use a Torque Tube design. This is an enclosed driveshaft and it does not have traditional U-joints at the rear axle. It uses a single U-joint at the front where the driveshaft connects to the transmission. Service for this system is very different from later models.
- 1959-1960 Models: These years may feature a more complex multi-piece open driveshaft with more than two U-joints and a center support bearing.
- 1961-1964 Models: These models use a more modern and familiar open driveshaft with a U-joint at each end (front and rear).
This guide primarily focuses on the replaceable U-joints found on 1959-1964 models and the single front U-joint on 1957-1958 models.
Symptoms of a Failing Universal Joint
A bad U-joint gives several warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to the driveshaft detaching from the car, causing a total loss of power and severe damage.
- Clunking Noise: A distinct “clunk” or “ping” sound when you shift from Park into Drive or Reverse is a classic sign of a worn U-joint. This is caused by excessive play in the joint.
- Vibration at Speed: A vibration that you can feel through the floor or seats that gets worse as you increase speed is a common symptom. This is often confused with an unbalanced tire, but U-joint vibration is felt during acceleration and deceleration.
- Squeaking or Chirping: A rhythmic squeak that matches the rotation of the driveshaft (not the wheels) often points to a dry, failing U-joint bearing.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint
For a classic vehicle like the Roadmaster, new original equipment (OEM) parts are not available. The market consists of aftermarket parts, where quality can vary. For a part this critical, it's best to choose a trusted brand.
Pro Tip: Choose a greasable U-joint. While sealed joints are often called "service-free," the ability to add fresh grease periodically can significantly extend the life of the part on a classic car, especially one that may sit for periods. Dana Spicer is a highly-regarded brand known for durability and is often considered an OEM-equivalent for classic American cars.
Brand Quality: Dana Spicer Chassis
Dana Spicer is a well-known and respected manufacturer of drivetrain components. Their U-joints are often considered a top-tier choice for classic cars due to their robust construction and long-term reliability. Tests have shown Spicer U-joints to last significantly longer than many competitors, making them a solid investment for the heavy, high-torque application of a Buick Roadmaster.
Estimated Replacement Costs
The cost to replace a U-joint can vary, but here is a general breakdown. Keep in mind that cars with multi-piece driveshafts may have more joints, increasing the total cost.
| Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket U-Joint (Part) | $39 - $54 |
| Shop Labor | $110 - $170 |
| Total Estimated Cost | $149 - $224 |
Note: Prices are estimates and can vary based on your location and the specific repair shop. This estimate is for a single U-joint replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many U-joints does my 1957-1964 Roadmaster have?
It depends on the year. 1957-1958 models with a torque tube have one U-joint at the transmission. 1961-1964 models with an open driveshaft typically have two, one at the front and one at the rear. 1959-1960 models may have a more complex setup with multiple joints and a center bearing. Always inspect your specific vehicle.
What's the difference between a greasable and a sealed U-joint?
Greasable U-joints have a small fitting (a zerk fitting) that allows you to inject new grease with a grease gun. This pushes out old grease and contaminants. Sealed U-joints are greased at the factory and cannot be re-greased. For classic cars, greasable joints are often preferred for longevity.
Is Dana Spicer a good brand for my classic Buick?
Yes. Dana Spicer has a strong reputation for producing high-quality, durable drivetrain parts that meet or exceed OEM standards. They are a trusted choice in the classic car community.
Can I replace just one bad U-joint?
Yes, you can replace only the failing joint. However, if your driveshaft has multiple U-joints and they are all the same age, it's often cost-effective to replace them all at the same time to prevent future issues. A professional shop may also recommend balancing the driveshaft after replacement.
Technical Specifications
Driveshaft design varies significantly by year. 1957-1958 models feature a torque tube design with a single front U-joint. 1959-1964 models use an open driveshaft with at least two U-joints. Part compatibility must be verified for your specific year and model.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.