Dodge D100 Pickup (1957-1965) Universal Joint Replacement Guide
Don't let a bad U-joint leave your classic Dodge D100 stranded; here's what you need to know.
- Listen for clunking when shifting or vibrations at speed, as these are the most common signs of failure.
- For a long-lasting repair, choose a premium aftermarket brand like Dana Spicer.
- It is critical to measure your old U-joints before ordering to ensure you get the correct size (7260 vs. 7290).
- Always replace U-joints in pairs to ensure proper driveline balance and prevent a second repair job soon after the first.
Is Your D100's U-Joint Failing?
A failing U-joint gives you some clear warning signs. Because this part is under a lot of stress, symptoms often start small and get worse. Ignoring them can lead to the driveshaft detaching, which can cause a loss of control or major damage to the underside of your truck.
- Clunking or Pinging Noises: A sharp "clunk" when you shift into Drive or Reverse is a classic sign of a worn U-joint. You might also hear a metallic pinging or chirping sound as you start moving.
- Driveshaft Vibrations: You may feel a vibration in the floor or the seat of your truck, especially as you increase speed. This happens because the worn joint allows the driveshaft to spin out of balance.
- Grease Splatter: If you look under the truck and see greasy splatter on the chassis near the driveshaft, it could mean the U-joint's seals have failed and flung grease everywhere.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint for Your Classic D100
For a vehicle from this era, new Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts from Mopar are generally not available. You will be choosing from aftermarket brands. The good news is that some aftermarket brands have a long history of making quality parts that meet or exceed original standards.
Aftermarket Brand Tiers
| Tier | Brand(s) | Quality & Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Premium Aftermarket | Dana Spicer | Dana is a well-respected OEM supplier for many truck manufacturers. Spicer U-joints are widely considered the top-tier replacement part for durability and strength. They are often the preferred choice for heavy-duty use or for owners who want the best possible quality. |
| Standard Aftermarket | GMB | GMB is a popular and reliable aftermarket brand that offers a good balance of quality and affordability. For a stock D100 under normal driving conditions, a GMB U-joint is a perfectly acceptable and budget-friendly choice. |
Pro Tip: Before removing the driveshaft, use a paint marker or chalk to make alignment marks on the shaft and the yokes at the transmission and axle. This ensures you reinstall it in the same orientation, which is critical for maintaining balance and preventing vibrations.
Cost of Replacing a 1957-1965 Dodge D100 U-Joint
The cost is straightforward since you'll be buying aftermarket parts. The main variables are the brand you choose and whether you do the work yourself.
| Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket U-Joint | $19 - $55 per joint |
| Shop Labor | $150 - $300 |
| Total Cost (DIY) | $19 - $110 (for two joints) |
| Total Cost (Installed) | $170 - $410 |
Note: Prices are estimates and may vary based on your location, vehicle condition, and the specific parts chosen. Most D100s have two U-joints.
A Note on Greasable vs. Sealed U-Joints
You will find both "greasable" (with a zerk fitting) and "sealed" (non-greasable) U-joints. Sealed joints are filled with grease at the factory and are often preferred because they are lower maintenance and the seals are very effective. Greasable joints can last a long time, but only if you are diligent about greasing them regularly. If not maintained, they can fail faster than a sealed joint.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many U-joints does my 1957-1965 D100 have?
Most standard wheelbase, two-wheel-drive D100s have a one-piece driveshaft with two universal joints: one at the transmission end and one at the rear axle end. Some long-wheelbase models may have a two-piece driveshaft with three U-joints and a center support bearing. Always inspect your specific truck to be sure.
Do I need to replace both U-joints at the same time?
It is highly recommended. If one U-joint has failed due to age and mileage, the other is likely not far behind. Replacing them in pairs saves you from having to do the same job twice and ensures a smooth, balanced driveline.
What is the most common mistake when ordering?
Mopar used two main U-joint sizes during this era: the "small" 7260 series and the "large" 7290 series. While less common, it's possible to have a combination of parts from different years. The most reliable way to ensure you get the right part is to measure the dimensions of your existing U-joint caps and the inside width of the yoke where it sits.
Is replacing a U-joint a DIY job?
Yes, for a mechanically inclined person with the right tools. You will need a good set of sockets, a sturdy vise, and either a ball joint press or a specific U-joint press tool to push the old joints out and install the new ones without damaging the bearing caps. Hammering the parts can damage the driveshaft yoke or the new joint.
Technical Specifications
The most important specifications are the U-joint series (typically Mopar 7260 or 7290) and the measurements. The 7260 series fits a yoke with an inside span of 2.125 inches. The 7290 series fits a yoke with an inside span of 2.625 inches. Always measure your existing parts to confirm fitment.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.