1958 Studebaker 3E13 Starter Solenoid: A Comprehensive Guide
Everything you need to know to get your classic Studebaker truck starting reliably again.
- You MUST verify if your truck has a 6-volt or 12-volt electrical system before buying a new solenoid.
- Check if your current solenoid is mounted on the inner fender or directly on the starter to ensure you order the correct style.
- A single, loud click without the engine cranking is the most common symptom of a failed starter solenoid.
- Standard Ignition is a widely available aftermarket brand, but be aware of potential quality differences between their product lines.
Is Your Studebaker's Starter Solenoid Failing?
A bad starter solenoid can leave you stranded. Because the 1958 Studebaker 3E13 is a straightforward machine, the signs of failure are usually clear. If you turn the key and hear one loud 'CLICK' but the engine doesn't crank, the solenoid is the most likely culprit. This sound is the solenoid engaging, but its internal contacts are too worn to pass power to the starter motor. Other signs include the engine cranking very slowly even with a good battery, or the truck starting intermittently. In some cases, you might smell burning plastic or see physical damage like cracks or melted terminals on the solenoid itself.
Critical Check: 6-Volt or 12-Volt System?
Before ordering any part, you must confirm your truck's electrical system. While many V8 Studebakers from this era were 12-volt, many 6-cylinder models were 6-volt, and countless trucks have been converted from 6V to 12V over the decades. A 12-volt solenoid will not work correctly on a 6-volt system and vice-versa. Check your battery or use a multimeter to confirm your system's voltage.
Choosing a New Aftermarket Solenoid
Finding a new original equipment (OEM) starter solenoid for a 1958 Studebaker is nearly impossible. The market today consists of New Old Stock (NOS) parts, which can be expensive and unreliable due to age, and new aftermarket parts. For most owners, a new aftermarket solenoid is the most practical and reliable choice.
Brand Spotlight: Standard Ignition
Standard Motor Products (SMP), sold under the brand name Standard Ignition, is one of the most common aftermarket brands available for your 3E13. They state that their solenoids are made with heavy-duty copper contacts and strong copper windings to improve performance and lifespan.
Owner experiences with the brand are mixed. Many classic car enthusiasts have used Standard parts for years with good results. However, some report that the quality can be inconsistent, especially with their budget-friendly 'T-Series' line, which may not be as durable for high-current parts like a starter solenoid. When possible, choosing their primary product line over the T-Series is a safer bet for longevity.
Pro Tip: Fender-Mount vs. Starter-Mount
Studebaker used both fender-mounted (remote) solenoids and solenoids mounted directly on the starter motor during this period. Visually inspect your truck to see which type you have. A fender-mounted solenoid is a simple cylinder with electrical posts, usually on the inner fender well, and is very easy to replace. A starter-mounted unit is attached to the starter motor itself and requires more effort to access.
Estimated Costs for a New Starter Solenoid
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket | $45 - $80 |
| New Old Stock (NOS) | $50 - $100+ (if found) |
| Shop Labor | $60 - $120 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a bad solenoid drain my battery?
Yes, in some cases. If the internal contacts of the solenoid get stuck in the 'on' position, it can cause the starter motor to run continuously or create a constant power draw, which will drain the battery very quickly. This can also burn out the starter motor.
I hear rapid clicking when I turn the key. Is that the solenoid?
A rapid, machine-gun-like clicking sound is almost always a sign of a weak or dead battery, not a bad solenoid. The solenoid requires a certain amount of voltage to stay engaged. A weak battery has just enough power to engage it for a split second before the voltage drops, causing it to disengage and re-engage rapidly.
Can I still start my truck with a bad solenoid?
If the solenoid is the only problem, you can sometimes bypass it in an emergency. This involves carefully using a screwdriver or jumper wire to connect the large battery terminal on the solenoid directly to the large starter terminal on the solenoid. This is dangerous as it creates large sparks and bypasses all safety switches. It should only be done if you are comfortable working with high-current electrical systems.
Is it better to find an original NOS part?
Not necessarily. While NOS parts are 'original', they have been sitting on a shelf for over 60 years. Internal components can corrode or degrade over time, making them unreliable. A quality new aftermarket part is often a more dependable option for a vehicle that is driven regularly.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1539452 1539716
Varies based on 6-volt or 12-volt system and mounting location (starter-mounted vs. remote/fender-mounted).
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- 🛍️ Shop This Part
- Is Your Studebaker's Starter Solenoid Failing?
- Critical Check: 6-Volt or 12-Volt System?
- Choosing a New Aftermarket Solenoid
- Brand Spotlight: Standard Ignition
- Pro Tip: Fender-Mount vs. Starter-Mount
- Estimated Costs for a New Starter Solenoid
- Frequently Asked Questions
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