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Choosing the Right Headlight Switch for Your 1962-1968 Chevrolet Chevy II

Don't get left in the dark—understand the common failures and replacement options for your classic Chevy II's headlight switch.

4 minutes to read 1962-1968 Chevrolet Chevy II
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
0.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$75-$150
Used OEM Price
$20-$60
🚫 Do not drive — Driving with a faulty headlight switch is a serious safety risk due to potential sudden loss of all lights.
Key Takeaways
  • Flickering headlights are the #1 sign of a bad switch, caused by the internal circuit breaker failing.
  • Before ordering, visually inspect your switch's connector, as GM used two different, non-interchangeable types during 1962-1968.
  • For reliability, choose a Tier 1 aftermarket brand like ACDelco or Standard Ignition.
  • Replacement is a simple DIY task for most owners, typically taking less than an hour.
In your 1962-1968 Chevy II, the headlight switch does more than just turn on the headlights. It's the control center for several lighting systems. Pulling the knob to the first position activates your parking lights and taillights. Pulling it all the way out turns on the headlights. The switch also includes a rotating dial, called a rheostat, which dims the dashboard instrument lights. On many models, twisting the knob fully will also turn on the interior dome light.

Signs of a Failing Headlight Switch in a Classic Chevy II

The headlight switch in a 1960s GM car is a high-load mechanical part that wears out over time. Unlike modern cars, your Chevy II does not have a fuse for the headlight circuit in the fuse box. Instead, it uses a self-resetting circuit breaker built directly into the switch. When this breaker fails or the switch's internal contacts corrode, you'll experience problems.

Key Failure Symptom: Flickering Headlights

🎬 Watch this guide on troubleshooting classic car headlight issues.

The most common and alarming symptom is headlights that flicker on and off by themselves while driving. This happens when the old switch overheats, causing the internal circuit breaker to trip. As it cools for a few seconds, it resets, and the lights come back on, only to repeat the cycle. This is a clear sign the switch is worn out and needs immediate replacement.

  • Lights Won't Turn On: The switch may fail completely, leaving you with no headlights or taillights.
  • Dash Lights Don't Work or Dim: The small coil inside the switch that controls the dash light brightness can burn out, causing your instrument panel to go dark.
  • Burning Smell or Hot Switch: A burning plastic smell or a switch that is hot to the touch indicates a serious electrical problem inside the switch, creating a fire risk.
  • Only Some Lights Work: You might lose only the parking lights or only the headlights, indicating a specific contact inside the switch has failed.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Headlight Switch

For a vehicle like the Chevy II, "New OEM" parts from GM are no longer available. Aftermarket reproductions are your only option. Quality can vary, so it's important to choose a reputable brand.

Brand Tier Brands Quality & Cost Assessment
Tier 1: OEM-Quality Replica ACDelco, Standard Ignition ACDelco is GM's own parts brand, and their classic car parts are generally considered high-quality reproductions made to original specifications. Standard Ignition is a long-standing, trusted aftermarket brand with a good reputation. These brands cost more but offer the best fit, finish, and longevity. Expect to pay in the $50 - $90 range.
Tier 2: Economy Replacement, Store Brands (e.g., Duralast) These are value-focused brands. While functional, they may not have the same robust feel or long-term durability as Tier 1 parts. They are a budget-friendly option that will get the job done, typically costing in the $27 - $50 range. For a car that is driven regularly, investing in a Tier 1 brand is often worth the extra cost.

Important: Check Your Connector!

🎬 See how to identify the two different Chevy II switches.

GM used two different, non-interchangeable headlight switches during this period. Early models (roughly 1962-1964) used a larger switch with a specific electrical connector pattern. Later models (roughly 1965-1968) used a smaller switch with a different pattern. Before ordering, it is critical to look at your existing switch's 8-prong connector and compare it to the photos of the replacement part to ensure you get the correct one for your dash harness. Many cars of this age may have had their wiring harnesses swapped over the years.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is replacing the headlight switch a difficult job? 🎬 Follow this step-by-step video to replace your GM headlight switch.

No, for someone with basic mechanical skills, this is a very doable DIY job. It involves reaching under the dash, pressing a small spring-loaded button on the switch body to release the knob and shaft, unscrewing a retaining nut on the dash, and unplugging the electrical connector. The most difficult part is often just accessing the switch under the dashboard.

Why can't I find a fuse for my headlights?

Classic GM vehicles from this era, including the Chevy II, do not use a fuse for the main headlight circuit. They rely on a circuit breaker that is built into the headlight switch itself. If the circuit overheats, the breaker trips and automatically resets as it cools, which is what causes the lights to flicker on and off.

Is it the headlight switch or the floor dimmer switch?

If your headlights work on either high or low beam but not both, the problem is likely the foot-operated dimmer switch on the floor. If your headlights flicker, don't work at all, or you have issues with dash and parking lights, the problem is almost always the main headlight switch in the dashboard.

What is "New Old Stock" (NOS)?

NOS stands for New Old Stock. These are original parts made by GM decades ago that were never sold or installed. While they are true OEM parts, they can be very expensive and hard to find. For a common replacement part like a headlight switch, a high-quality aftermarket reproduction from a brand like ACDelco or Standard Ignition is a more practical choice.

Muscle Car Electrical Wiring Troubleshooting Tricks and Tips Episode 250 Autorestomod
Muscle Car Electrical Wiring Troubleshooting Tricks and Tips Episode 250 Autorestomod
CHEVY II NOVA - Early Headlight Switches There Were Two & Tell Them Apart!
CHEVY II NOVA - Early Headlight Switches There Were Two & Tell Them Apart!
Replacing An Old GM Headlight Switch
Replacing An Old GM Headlight Switch
Headlights not working on your Classic Car? CHECK THIS
Headlights not working on your Classic Car? CHECK THIS

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 1995046 1995047

8-prong male blade terminal connector. Includes internal self-resetting circuit breaker and dash light rheostat.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Apr 19, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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