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Chrysler Imperial Headlight Switch Guide: 1962-1975

Solving flickering lights and other common electrical issues starts with a reliable headlight switch.

4 minutes to read 1962-1975 Chrysler Imperial
Difficulty
3/5
Est. Time
1.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$100-$200
Used OEM Price
$20-$60
🚫 Do not drive — Driving with a faulty headlight switch is extremely dangerous, as your headlights could fail without warning at night.
Key Takeaways
  • Flickering headlights are the number one sign of a failing headlight switch in a 1962-1975 Imperial, usually due to a weak internal circuit breaker.
  • A new aftermarket switch from a reputable brand like Standard Ignition or Crown is the most reliable and cost-effective solution.
  • While replacing the switch is a feasible DIY job, access under the dash is difficult and requires patience.
  • Always investigate other potential causes like the floor dimmer switch and main electrical connections, as Chrysler products of this era can have multiple electrical weak points.
The headlight switch in your 1962-1975 Chrysler Imperial does more than just turn the headlights on and off. It is the central control point for all exterior and interior lighting. Pulling the knob to the first position activates the parking lights, taillights, and side markers. Pulling it to the second position turns on the headlights. The switch also contains a rotating dimmer, called a rheostat, for the instrument panel and dashboard lights. Crucially, it houses an internal circuit breaker to protect the headlight circuit from overloads.

Is Your Imperial's Headlight Switch Failing?

Due to the age of 1962-1975 Chrysler Imperials, the original headlight switch is a common point of failure. These switches handled a lot of electrical current, and after decades of use, the internal components wear out. The most frequent issue is with the built-in circuit breaker. Over time, corrosion and wear on the internal contacts cause increased resistance and heat, leading the breaker to trip intermittently. This results in the classic and dangerous symptom of headlights flickering or shutting off completely while driving.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Headlight Switch:

  • Flickering or Intermittent Headlights: The lights cut out and then come back on by themselves. This is the most common sign of a worn-out internal circuit breaker.
  • Headlights Don't Turn On: The switch fails to make a connection, and the headlights, parking lights, or both will not illuminate at all.
  • Dashboard Lights Don't Work or Dim: The rheostat that controls the dash light brightness can fail or become corroded, leaving you with no instrument illumination.
  • Switch Feels Hot to the Touch: Increased resistance inside a failing switch generates excess heat, which you may feel at the dashboard.
  • Burning Smell: A smell of burning plastic or hot electronics from the dash area is a critical warning sign of a severe electrical short in the switch.

Other Potential Causes

While the headlight switch is a frequent culprit, flickering lights can also be caused by a faulty floor-mounted dimmer switch, poor body grounds, or corrosion at the main bulkhead firewall connector—a known issue on Chrysler products of this era. Always check these areas as well.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Headlight Switch

For a vehicle of this vintage, finding a New Old Stock (NOS) OEM part is difficult and expensive. A used switch will likely have the same age-related issues as your current one. A new aftermarket switch is the most practical and reliable solution. Quality can vary, so it's important to understand the brands.

  • Standard Ignition (Mid-Tier): Standard Motor Products is a well-established brand known for producing quality replacement electrical components that meet or exceed original specifications. User reviews for their switches on other classic vehicles are generally positive, making them a reliable choice.
  • Crown Automotive (Mid-Tier): Crown is a popular supplier of parts for classic Chrysler and Jeep vehicles. Their components are generally regarded as quality reproductions that fit and function correctly. For a classic Imperial, Crown is a solid, dependable option.
  • Replacement (Value-Tier): This category represents basic, lower-cost switches. While functional, they may not have the same long-term durability or internal component quality as higher-tier brands. They can be a budget-friendly option, but for a critical safety component like a headlight switch, investing in a recognized brand is recommended.

When replacing the switch, it's a good time to clean the electrical connector with contact cleaner and apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the terminals to prevent future corrosion.

Estimated Costs for Headlight Switch Replacement

Part or Service Estimated Cost
New Aftermarket Headlight Switch $25 - $45
Shop Labor $100 - $200
Total Estimated Cost $125 - $245

Cost estimates are for reference only and may vary based on your location and the specific repair shop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace the headlight switch myself?

Yes, this is a DIY-feasible job for someone with basic mechanical skills, but it can be challenging. Access under the dashboard is very tight. The process involves disconnecting the battery, reaching under the dash to press a spring-loaded release button on the switch body, and pulling the knob and shaft out from the front. Then, a special retaining nut must be unscrewed from the dashboard to remove the switch body from behind. Patience is key.

Why do my headlights turn off after being on for a while?

This is the classic symptom of a failing internal circuit breaker in the headlight switch. As the circuit heats up from normal use, the worn breaker trips, cutting power. After it cools for a few seconds or minutes, it resets and the lights come back on, only to repeat the cycle. This is a serious safety issue that requires immediate attention.

Are there any recalls for this issue?

No, there are no active recalls for the headlight switch on a 1962-1975 Chrysler Imperial. Problems with vehicles of this age are typically addressed through standard repairs rather than manufacturer recall campaigns.

Is it better to repair my original switch or buy a new one?

While it is technically possible to disassemble and clean the contacts or even bypass the internal breaker on an original switch, it is a very delicate process not recommended for most owners. Given the availability of affordable and reliable new aftermarket switches, replacement is the safest and most effective solution.

Technical Specifications

The headlight switch for this era is a pull-style switch with a rotating rheostat for dash light dimming and an integrated thermal circuit breaker. The specific OEM part number varies by year and model options, making a universal number difficult to provide.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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Meet Wrenchy → Updated Apr 19, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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