Ford Ranchero Universal Joint: A Guide for 1966-1979 Models
Don't let driveshaft vibrations and clunks ruin your ride; find the right U-joint for your classic Ranchero.
- Measure your old U-joints before ordering; multiple sizes were used on the 1966-1979 Ranchero.
- For top quality and strength, choose a Dana/Spicer non-greasable U-joint.
- Decide between greasable (requires maintenance) and non-greasable (stronger, no maintenance) based on your habits.
- Always replace U-joints in pairs or as a full set for reliable, long-lasting performance.
Is Your Ranchero's U-Joint Failing?
A failing universal joint gives clear warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to more expensive repairs or leave you stranded if the driveshaft disconnects. Listen and feel for these symptoms when you drive.
Common Failure Symptoms:
- Clunking or Pinging Noise: A sharp 'clunk' when you shift into drive or reverse is a classic sign of a worn U-joint with excessive play.
- Vibration While Driving: A vibration that you can feel through the floor or seats, which often gets worse at higher speeds, points to a worn or unbalanced U-joint.
- Squeaking or Chirping: A rotational squeak that is most noticeable at low speeds often means the U-joint's internal needle bearings have lost their grease and are running dry.
- Leaking Fluid: In advanced cases, severe vibration from a bad U-joint can damage the transmission's rear seal, causing a fluid leak.
Critical: Measure Before You Buy
Ford used several different U-joint sizes on the Ranchero between 1966 and 1979, depending on the engine, transmission, and rear axle combination. There is no single part that fits all models. The only way to guarantee you order the correct part is to remove and measure your old U-joints. You will need to measure the cap diameter and the width across the joint from cap to cap (the span).
Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint
For a vehicle of this era, new original equipment (OEM) parts from Ford are no longer available. The aftermarket has become the primary source for replacements, with quality often meeting or exceeding the original specifications. Brands like Dana/Spicer were often the original suppliers to Ford, so a high-quality aftermarket part is the best choice.
Brand Quality Tiers
- Tier 1 (Premium / Heavy Duty): Dana Spicer, Yukon Gear
Often considered the gold standard, Dana/Spicer parts are known for their durability and are frequently used as OEM suppliers. Their non-greasable "Spicer Life Series" joints are particularly strong. Yukon Gear specializes in high-performance and heavy-duty applications, making them an excellent choice for modified or hard-working Rancheros. - Tier 2 (Standard / Quality): Moog, SKF
Moog and SKF are well-respected brands that offer a good balance of quality and price. They are a reliable choice for a daily driver or stock restoration. While some forum users note Moog's quality can vary, they are generally a trusted option. - Tier 3 (Value): GMB
GMB offers a functional and affordable replacement part suitable for standard-duty use. These are a good option for budget-conscious repairs on a stock vehicle.
Greasable vs. Non-Greasable: Which is Best for You?
You'll see two types of U-joints: greasable (with a zerk fitting) and non-greasable (sealed). The choice depends on your preference for maintenance and strength.
- Non-Greasable: These are stronger because the main body (cross) is solid steel without a channel drilled through it for grease. They are maintenance-free and are often preferred for a 'fit-it-and-forget-it' installation.
- Greasable: These can last longer *if* you are diligent about greasing them every 3,000-5,000 miles. The fresh grease helps flush out dirt and moisture. If you don't mind the regular maintenance, they are a great option. If you forget, they will fail quickly.
Estimated Replacement Costs
The cost to replace your Ranchero's U-joints will vary based on your location and whether you do the work yourself. Most Rancheros have two U-joints on the main driveshaft.
| Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| Aftermarket U-Joint (per part) | $18.90 - $107.89 |
| Shop Labor (per joint) | $110 - $170 |
| Total DIY Cost (2 joints) | $38 - $216 |
| Total Shop Cost (2 joints) | $258 - $556 |
Cost estimates are based on national averages and the provided part price range. Prices may vary.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many U-joints does my Ranchero have?
Most 1966-1979 Rancheros have a simple one-piece driveshaft with two U-joints: one at the transmission end and one at the rear axle. However, some configurations could have a double-cardan joint, which uses two joints close together, for a total of three. It is always best to inspect your specific vehicle. When one joint fails, it's recommended to replace all of them at the same time.
Should I choose a greasable or non-greasable U-joint?
This is a personal choice. If you want maximum strength and no maintenance, choose a quality non-greasable joint like a Spicer Life Series. If you are diligent with your vehicle maintenance and enjoy working on your car, a greasable joint can offer a very long service life as long as you grease it regularly.
Do I need to balance my driveshaft after replacing the U-joints?
If you are simply replacing the U-joints and did not experience vibrations before they failed, balancing is not usually required. However, it's critical to mark the driveshaft's orientation to the axle yoke before removal and reinstall it in the same position. If you have a persistent vibration after installation, the driveshaft may be out of balance and should be checked by a specialty shop.
Can I replace just one U-joint?
While you can, it is highly recommended to replace them as a set. When one U-joint fails, it puts extra stress on the other, meaning it is likely already worn and will fail soon. Replacing them all at once saves you from doing the job twice.
Technical Specifications
Original Ford part numbers are largely obsolete. The most important specifications are the physical measurements of your existing U-joints. Common series for Fords of this era include 1310, 1330, and 1350. You must measure the bearing cap diameter and the outside lock-up dimension (span) to ensure you purchase the correct replacement.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.