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Ford F-100 (1967-1977) Universal Joint: A Complete Replacement Guide

Address driveline clunks, squeaks, and vibrations by choosing the right U-joint for your classic Ford truck.

4 minutes to read 1967-1977 Ford F-100
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
1.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$100-$200
Used OEM Price
Not Recommended
⚠️ Drivable, but... — You can drive for a short time, but a complete failure can cause the driveshaft to detach, leading to a loss of power and potential for a crash.
Key Takeaways
  • Spicer is the most recommended brand for quality and durability, often considered the OEM standard for these trucks.
  • You must measure your old U-joint's cap diameter and width before ordering, as sizes vary by year and configuration.
  • For longevity and strength, a sealed (non-greasable) U-joint is often the better choice over a greasable one unless you are committed to regular maintenance.
  • If one U-joint has failed, it is best practice to replace all of them on the driveshaft at the same time.
The universal joint, or U-joint, is a critical part of your F-100's drivetrain. It's a cross-shaped joint with bearing caps that connects the driveshaft to the transmission and the rear axle. Because your truck has a solid axle that moves up and down with the suspension, the U-joint flexes to allow the driveshaft to keep spinning without binding or breaking. On models with a two-piece driveshaft, a third U-joint is used in the middle, and 4WD models have additional U-joints in the front driveshaft and front axle shafts.

Is Your F-100's U-Joint Failing?

A worn-out universal joint in your 1967-1977 Ford F-100 will make itself known through distinct sounds and feelings. Because these parts are under constant load, they wear out over time. Ignoring the signs can lead to a complete failure where the driveshaft separates from the truck, causing a loss of power and potentially damaging other components.

Common Failure Symptoms

  • Clunking or Banging Noise: A loud "clunk" or "ping" when you shift from Park into Drive or Reverse is a classic sign of a bad U-joint with excessive play.
  • Vibration at Speed: You may feel a vibration throughout the truck that starts around 30-45 MPH and gets worse as you go faster. This is caused by the worn joint throwing the driveshaft out of balance.
  • Cyclical Squeaking or Chirping: A rhythmic squeak that matches the driveshaft's rotation (faster than the wheels) often points to a U-joint that has lost its grease and is running dry.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint

For a classic truck like the '67-'77 F-100, original Ford (FoMoCo) parts are generally not available. The aftermarket offers a wide range of quality options to fit your needs and budget.

Brand Quality Tiers

Based on owner experiences and mechanic recommendations, aftermarket U-joints for this truck can be grouped into tiers:

  • Top Tier (OEM Quality or Better): Dana Spicer is widely considered the gold standard. Dana manufactured many of the original axles for these trucks, and their U-joints are known for strength, durability, and proper fit. Many owners will use nothing else. Yukon Gear & Axle is another premium brand, often chosen for heavy-duty or off-road use.
  • Mid Tier (Reliable Replacements): Moog and SKF are well-known brands that offer a good balance of quality and price. While Moog's reputation has seen some debate in recent years, they remain a popular choice for daily drivers.
  • Economy Tier: Brands like GMB offer a budget-friendly option that can be suitable for light-duty use.

Greasable vs. Sealed (Non-Greasable) U-Joints

You have a choice between two main styles of U-joints:

  • Sealed (Non-Greasable): These are often preferred for their strength and simplicity. The solid cross (with no channels drilled for grease) is stronger and less prone to failure under high torque. Top-quality sealed joints like the Spicer Life Series are designed to be installed and forgotten.
  • Greasable: These have a zerk fitting that allows you to pump in fresh grease, which can flush out water and contaminants. This can extend their life, but only if you perform maintenance regularly (every 3,000-5,000 miles). Forgetting to grease them will lead to rapid failure.

For most owners, a high-quality sealed U-joint from a brand like Spicer is the recommended choice for its strength and maintenance-free design.

How Much Does a U-Joint Replacement Cost?

The cost consists of the part itself and the labor to install it. While the parts are inexpensive, labor can vary. Replacing the U-joints is a common DIY job for many F-100 owners.

ItemEstimated Cost
New Aftermarket U-Joint (Single)$18 - $75
Shop Labor (Per Joint)$100 - $200
Total Professional Replacement (Per Joint)$120 - $275

Cost estimates are for a single driveshaft U-joint and can vary by location and vehicle configuration. Two-piece driveshafts or 4WD front axle joints may cost more.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many U-joints does my 1967-1977 F-100 have?

It depends on your truck's configuration. A standard 2WD truck with a one-piece driveshaft has two U-joints. If you have a long-bed truck with a two-piece driveshaft, you will have three U-joints and a center support bearing. A 4WD model will have those, plus U-joints in the front driveshaft and one in each front axle shaft by the steering knuckles.

Should I replace all the U-joints at once?

It is highly recommended. If one U-joint has failed due to age and mileage, the others are likely not far behind. Replacing them all at once saves you from having to do the same job again in the near future.

Is replacing a U-joint a good DIY project?

Yes, for those with some mechanical experience. The process involves removing the driveshaft, then using a large bench vise and sockets or a hammer to press the old joints out and the new ones in. The biggest risks are damaging the new joint's needle bearings or bending the driveshaft yoke.

What is the most common mistake when ordering a U-joint?

Not measuring first. Ford used several different U-joint sizes throughout this generation, depending on the year, engine, transmission, and axle. The only way to be certain you are ordering the correct part is to remove and measure the bearing cap diameter and the overall width of your old U-joint.

Technical Specifications

Universal joint sizes vary significantly based on year, 2WD vs 4WD, transmission, and which driveshaft is used (one-piece or two-piece). Common series include 1310 and 1330, but physical measurement of the original part (bearing cap diameter and overall width) is required for accurate replacement.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

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