Ford Custom 500 Brake Light Switch Guide: 1970-1977
Solve your brake light problems with the right information for your classic Ford.
- A faulty turn signal switch can cause brake light failure on these Fords; investigate this before assuming the brake light switch is bad.
- Always check fuses, bulbs, and wiring for corrosion before replacing any parts on a classic vehicle.
- Replacement is a simple DIY job that does not require any brake bleeding, as the switch is mechanical and located at the pedal.
- Driving without functional brake lights is illegal and extremely dangerous; this repair should be a top priority.
Is Your Brake Light Switch Failing?
A bad brake light switch on a classic Ford like your Custom 500 is a common issue due to age and decades of use. The symptoms are usually straightforward, but it's important to diagnose the problem correctly before buying parts. On a car of this age, the problem isn't always the switch itself.
Key Failure Symptoms:
- Brake Lights Don't Work: The most dangerous symptom is when your brake lights do not turn on at all when you press the pedal. This is a critical safety failure.
- Brake Lights Stay On: The switch can fail in the 'on' position, causing the brake lights to stay lit even when your foot is off the pedal. This will drain your battery and confuse other drivers.
- Flickering or Intermittent Lights: The switch contacts can wear out, causing the brake lights to flicker or work randomly when you press the pedal.
A Common Ford Problem: Check the Turn Signal Switch First!
On many classic Fords from this era, the brake light circuit is routed through the turn signal switch in the steering column. A failure inside the turn signal switch can prevent the brake lights from working correctly, even if the brake light switch itself is perfectly fine. If your brake lights don't work but your hazard lights do, the turn signal switch is a likely suspect. Always check fuses, bulbs, and wiring for corrosion before assuming any switch has failed.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Brake Light Switch
Original Ford (OEM) switches for this vehicle are long discontinued. You may find New Old Stock (NOS) parts online, but they are often very expensive. Thankfully, the aftermarket provides several reliable and affordable options. For a simple mechanical part like this, all available brands should perform the basic function correctly, but quality and longevity can differ.
Aftermarket Brand Tiers
- Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products): Often considered a top-tier aftermarket brand, Standard has been around for decades and is a trusted choice for professional mechanics. Their parts are known for quality manufacturing and reliability, making them a solid choice for a fit-and-forget repair.
- Rostra Powertrain: Rostra specializes in vehicle electronics for both OEM and aftermarket applications. They engineer their parts to meet or exceed original specifications and perform 100% testing for reliability. This is a quality brand and a dependable option.
- Skyward: This brand typically falls into the economy or value category. While it will get the job done at a lower price point, it may not have the same long-term durability or precise construction as premium brands. For a simple switch, it is a functional budget-friendly choice.
Pro Tip: The brake light switch on your Custom 500 is a mechanical switch located on the brake pedal. It is NOT a hydraulic switch on the master cylinder. This means you do NOT need to bleed your brakes after replacing it, making the job much simpler.
Brake Light Switch Replacement Cost
Replacing the brake light switch is one of the more affordable repairs you can perform. The part itself is inexpensive, and labor is minimal.
| Part Type | Price Range |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Switch | $5.40 - $29.97 |
| Shop Labor | $45 - $90 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it hard to replace the brake light switch myself?
No, this is a very easy DIY job. The main challenge is the awkward position required to work under the dashboard. The switch is typically held to a bracket by a clip or a jam nut. You simply disconnect the electrical connector, remove the old switch, install the new one, and reconnect the wires. The entire job usually takes less than 30 minutes.
Why are my brake lights stuck on after replacing the switch?
This usually means the new switch is not adjusted correctly. The switch needs to be positioned so that the brake pedal arm fully presses the plunger in when the pedal is released. If the plunger isn't fully depressed, the circuit remains closed and the lights stay on. Try adjusting the switch's position on its bracket until the lights turn off when the pedal is at rest.
My new switch didn't fix the problem. What now?
If a new switch doesn't solve your brake light issue, go back to the basics. First, double-check the fuse and the bulbs. Then, inspect the wiring for any obvious damage. The most likely culprit after that is the turn signal switch in the steering column, which is a known failure point that affects the brake lights on these cars.
How do I know if my car has a mechanical or hydraulic switch?
For a 1970-1977 Ford Custom 500, you should have a mechanical switch. You can confirm by looking under the dash at the top of the brake pedal arm; you will see the switch mounted there. Earlier Fords sometimes used a hydraulic pressure switch screwed into the master cylinder, but this is not correct for your vehicle's year range.
Technical Specifications
Mechanical plunger-style switch with 2 terminals, mounted on brake pedal support bracket.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.