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Replacing the Universal Joints on Your 1987 Chevrolet R10

Everything you need to know before you hear the clunk, feel the vibration, or see the driveshaft drop.

4 minutes to read 1987-1987 Chevrolet R10
Difficulty
3/5
Est. Time
2.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$150-$250
🚫 Do not drive — It is not safe to drive with a bad U-joint, as a complete failure can cause the driveshaft to detach and lead to a loss of vehicle control.
Key Takeaways
  • A clunking noise when shifting, vibrations, or a rotational squeak are urgent signs your U-joints need inspection.
  • For maximum durability, Dana/Spicer is the most recommended brand by truck owners.
  • Confirm your truck's driveshaft configuration (one-piece or two-piece) and measure your old U-joints before ordering to ensure correct fitment.
  • Driving with a failed U-joint is extremely dangerous; it can detach the driveshaft and cause a loss of control.
The universal joint, or U-joint, is a critical part of your 1987 Chevrolet R10's drivetrain. It's a small, cross-shaped joint with bearings that connects the driveshaft to the transmission and the rear axle. Because your truck's rear suspension moves up and down, the driveshaft needs to change angles constantly. The U-joints allow the driveshaft to spin and transfer power to the rear wheels smoothly, even as the axle moves over bumps. Without them, the driveshaft would bind up and break.

Symptoms of a Failing U-Joint on a 1987 R10

A bad U-joint gives several warning signs. Ignoring them can lead to a dangerous and expensive failure where the driveshaft can separate from the truck. Listen and feel for these symptoms:

🎬 Watch: 7 signs of a bad universal joint
  • "Clunk" Noise: A distinct clunking or ringing sound when you shift from Park to Drive, or from Drive to Reverse, is a classic sign of a worn U-joint with too much play.
  • Squeaking While Driving: A rhythmic squeak that matches the rotation of your wheels, especially at low speeds, often means a U-joint is dry and failing. The noise may disappear at higher speeds as it gets drowned out by road noise.
  • Vibrations: A vibration that you can feel through the floor or seat that gets worse as you speed up is a serious symptom. This indicates the worn U-joint has thrown the driveshaft out of balance.
  • Visible Signs: If you look under the truck, you might see a stripe of grease slung onto the underbody above the U-joint, which means the seal has failed.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint

For a classic truck like the '87 R10, aftermarket U-joints are the most common replacement. The quality of original equipment (OEM) parts from that era was good, but modern aftermarket parts from top brands can meet or exceed those standards. The key is choosing the right brand.

Greasable vs. Sealed U-Joints

You will find two types of U-joints: sealed (non-greasable) and greasable (with a zerk fitting).
Sealed joints, like many from Dana Spicer, are filled with high-quality grease at the factory and require no maintenance. They are often considered stronger because the cross is solid metal.
Greasable joints allow you to add fresh grease, which can push out water and contaminants. This is a benefit for trucks used in wet or off-road conditions, but you must remember to grease them regularly.

Brand Quality Tiers

  • Top Tier (OEM Quality or Better): Dana/Spicer is widely considered the best choice by truck owners and professional mechanics. They were the original equipment supplier for many vehicles and their parts are known for durability. If you want a fit-and-forget solution, Spicer is the top recommendation.
  • Mid Tier (Performance/Heavy-Duty): Yukon Gear specializes in drivetrain components and offers high-quality U-joints, including heavy-duty series like the 1350, for owners who use their trucks for hauling or have modified engines.
  • Standard Aftermarket Tier: Moog, SKF, and GMB fall into this category. Moog was once a top-tier brand, but many forum users report a decline in quality in recent years. SKF and GMB are established brands that offer a reliable, budget-friendly alternative to Spicer. For a daily-driven truck, these are acceptable options, but for heavy use, spending a little more on Spicer is often recommended.

Important Fitment Note for 1987 R10

The 1987 R10 was a transition year for Chevy trucks. Your truck could have a one-piece or two-piece driveshaft, and different transmissions were available. It is critical to measure your old U-joint's cap diameter and width or find the correct part number for your specific configuration. It's also possible a previous owner swapped the rear axle, which might require a special "combination" U-joint to connect the driveshaft to a different axle yoke.

Cost to Replace a 1987 Chevrolet R10 U-Joint

Part Type Part Cost Labor Cost Total Cost
Aftermarket U-Joint $20 - $75 $150 - $250 $170 - $325
Heavy-Duty/Performance U-Joint $75 - $240 $150 - $250 $225 - $490

Costs are estimates and can vary based on your location, the specific brand chosen, and the mechanic's labor rate. A two-piece driveshaft has more U-joints and a center support bearing, which will increase the total cost.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need special tools to replace a U-joint?

While a special U-joint press or ball joint press makes the job much easier, it can be done with a bench vise, a large socket, and a small socket. 🎬 Watch: How to replace U-joints using common hand tools Some original GM U-joints were installed with injected plastic retainers that must be melted with a torch before the joint can be pressed out.

🎬 See how to replace U-joints on a classic Chevy truck
Should I replace all the U-joints at once?

Yes. If one U-joint has failed due to age and mileage, the others are likely near the end of their service life as well. It is more efficient to replace all of them while the driveshaft is removed from the truck.

Are there any recalls for the 1987 R10 U-joint?

No. Searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database did not find any recalls or technical service bulletins (TSBs) specifically for the universal joints on the 1987 Chevrolet R10.

How many U-joints does my 1987 R10 have?

A standard one-piece driveshaft on a 2WD R10 has two U-joints. A truck with a two-piece driveshaft will have three U-joints and a center support bearing. It is important to inspect your truck to confirm its configuration before ordering parts.

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Technical Specifications

Common cap diameters are 1.125" and 1.188". Common cap-to-cap lengths are around 3.625". These dimensions can vary based on the specific driveshaft and axle combination. Measurement of the original part is highly recommended.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
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Meet Wrenchy → Updated Mar 28, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Universal Joint for:
  • Chevrolet R10: 1987
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