Go-Parts
Cart 0
Your cart is empty
Add an item to see it appear here.
Wrenchy
Go-Parts Garage
Expert guides for diagnosing, troubleshooting, and replacing auto parts Expert guides for diagnosing and replacing auto parts
Browse All Articles →
🛍️ Shop This Part

1987 GMC R1500 Ignition Switch: A Complete Replacement Guide

Don't get stranded by a bad ignition switch; understand the symptoms, brands, and replacement costs for your classic GMC truck.

4 minutes to read 1987-1987 GMC R1500
Difficulty
3/5
Est. Time
2 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$150-$250
🚫 Do not drive — A faulty ignition switch can cause the engine to stall while driving, which is a major safety risk.
Key Takeaways
  • A failing ignition switch can cause a no-start, stalling, or random electrical issues in your truck.
  • Before replacing the switch, check if it's just loose on the steering column, as this can cause similar symptoms.
  • Choosing a quality aftermarket brand like Standard Ignition is recommended to ensure proper fit and avoid issues seen with cheaper parts.
  • This is a manageable DIY repair, but it requires lowering the steering column for access.
The ignition switch in your 1987 GMC R1500 is the main electrical hub that powers up your truck. It's not where you put your key. Instead, it's a larger electronic component mounted on the steering column. When you turn the key, a rod connects the key cylinder to this switch, moving its internal contacts. This action sends power to different systems in stages: first accessories like the radio, then the ignition and fuel systems, and finally, it engages the starter motor to crank the engine.

Is Your Ignition Switch Failing? Common Symptoms for the 1987 R1500

A worn-out ignition switch can cause confusing electrical problems that might seem unrelated. Because the switch controls power to nearly everything, its failure can mimic other issues. Watch for these common signs in your truck:

  • No-Start or No-Crank: You turn the key and nothing happens, or you only hear a single click. The dashboard lights may or may not come on. This happens when the contacts inside the switch that send power to the starter are completely worn out.
  • Engine Stalls Unexpectedly: The truck may start and run fine, but then suddenly shut off while you're driving, especially when hitting a bump. This is a dangerous symptom caused by a momentary loss of connection inside the switch, cutting power to the ignition and fuel systems.
  • Intermittent Electrical Problems: You might notice the radio cutting out, or the dashboard lights and gauges flickering on and off randomly. This indicates a loose or failing connection within the switch for the accessory power circuit.
  • Key Feels Loose or Requires Wiggling: If you have to jiggle the key or turn it past the normal 'start' position to get the truck to crank, the mechanical linkage or the switch itself is likely worn.

Check This Before You Buy

Before ordering a new switch, check that the current one is not just loose. The ignition switch is bolted to the steering column, and if these bolts loosen, the switch can move out of alignment with the actuator rod, causing starting problems. Also, inspect the fusible links near the starter, as a blown link can cause a no-power situation that seems like a bad switch.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Ignition Switch

For a classic truck like the 1987 R1500, aftermarket parts are the most common and practical choice. Original OEM parts from ACDelco can be difficult to find. However, not all aftermarket parts are created equal, and fitment can be an issue with lower-quality brands. Here’s a breakdown of the available options.

Brand Tiers

  • Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products): Often considered a top-tier aftermarket brand, Standard parts are known for their quality, durability, and proper fit. Reviews frequently praise their reliability, making them a trusted choice for replacing critical components like the ignition switch.
  • Rostra Powertrain: Rostra is a certified manufacturer that produces parts for both original equipment (OE) and the aftermarket. While they are more known for transmission components, their reputation for quality engineering makes their ignition switches a solid, reliable option.
  • Replacement: This category represents basic, value-oriented brands. While they are the most affordable, they can sometimes have minor differences in fit or use materials that may not last as long as higher-tier options. They can be a good choice for a budget-conscious repair, but careful installation is key.
Ignition Switch Cost Comparison: 1987 GMC R1500
Part Type Estimated Cost
New Aftermarket $20.77 - $41.93
New OEM (ACDelco) $50 - $90 (if available)
Shop Labor $150 - $250

Pro Tip: Switch vs. Lock Cylinder

It's important to know the difference between the ignition switch and the ignition lock cylinder. The lock cylinder is the mechanical part you put your key into. The ignition switch is the electrical part on the steering column that the cylinder controls with a rod. If your key is physically stuck or hard to turn, the lock cylinder might be the problem. If the key turns fine but you have electrical issues, the switch is the more likely culprit.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I replace the ignition switch myself?

Yes, this is a DIY-feasible job for someone with moderate mechanical skill. The process involves removing the lower dash panels to access the steering column, unplugging the switch, and unbolting it from the column. You will need to lower the steering column for access.

Do I need special tools for the job?

While basic hand tools are needed, some related procedures, like replacing the lock cylinder at the same time, require a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor tool. If you are only replacing the switch on the column, you may not need these, but they are essential for a full steering column service.

How do I know it's the ignition switch and not the battery or starter?

If the battery is good (lights are bright) but you get a no-crank, the issue is likely in the starting circuit. A bad starter often makes a clicking sound. A bad ignition switch might result in no sound at all or cause intermittent power to accessories, which a bad starter would not do. Wiggling the key to get it to start also points strongly to the switch.

Are there any recalls for the 1987 GMC R1500 ignition switch?

No, searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database show no open recalls for the ignition switch on the 1987 GMC R1500.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: 1116513 1116539 1116613 1116616 12339179

Located on the steering column, actuated by a rod from the key cylinder.

Wrenchy
Article researched & written by
Go-Parts' AI research assistant. Every article is backed by live web research, verified OEM data, and real technician knowledge — so you get accurate, up-to-date information you can trust.
Meet Wrenchy → Updated Apr 19, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Ignition Switch for:
  • GMC R1500: 1987
In this article
🛍️ Shop This Part
Jump to ▴

Email This Guide

We'll send you a link to this article so you can read it later or share it.

Added to cart · Part