Chevrolet R20 Ignition Switch Guide for 1987-1988 Models
Having trouble starting your truck or dealing with flickering lights? Your ignition switch might be the problem.
- The ignition switch is an electrical part on the steering column, separate from where you insert the key.
- Symptoms often include a no-start condition, engine stalling, or flickering lights and accessories.
- Before replacing the switch, check if the mounting screws on the column are simply loose, as this can cause similar issues.
- No recalls are active for this part on the 1987-1988 R20; aftermarket parts are the standard replacement option.
Understanding the Ignition Switch in Your '87-'88 R20
On these classic Chevy trucks, it's important to know the difference between two parts: the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch. The lock cylinder is the mechanical part your key goes into. The ignition switch is the electrical part further down the steering column that actually sends power to the truck's systems. This guide focuses on the electrical ignition switch. Problems with this switch are common as they age, leading to frustrating electrical issues.
Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch
A bad ignition switch can cause problems that seem random. Here are the most common signs:
- No Crank, No Start: You turn the key and nothing happens. The starter motor is silent because the switch isn't sending it power.
- Engine Stalls While Driving: The engine may suddenly shut off, especially when driving on rough roads. This happens if the switch's internal contacts are worn and lose connection.
- Flickering Dash Lights & Gauges: You might see the dashboard lights flicker or gauges drop out randomly. This points to an inconsistent power supply from the switch.
- Accessories Don't Work Correctly: The radio, heater blower, or power windows might not work in the 'ACC' or 'ON' positions, or they may cut in and out.
- Starts and Immediately Stalls: The engine might fire up only while the key is held in the 'START' position but die as soon as you let it return to 'ON'.
Pro Tip: Check for Loose Screws First
Before buying a new part, check the ignition switch on the steering column under the dash. Sometimes the screws holding it in place can become loose, causing it to move out of alignment with the actuator rod. Tightening these screws might solve your problem without needing a replacement.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Ignition Switch
Since original GM parts for this truck are rare, you will be choosing from aftermarket brands. They generally fall into different quality tiers.
- Premium Brands (e.g., Standard Ignition): Brands like Standard Motor Products (SMP) have a long-standing reputation for making high-quality electrical parts that meet or exceed original specifications. They are a trusted choice for reliability and proper fit.
- Mid-Range Brands (e.g., Rostra Powertrain): These brands offer a balance of quality and price. They are generally reliable for daily use but may not have the same long-term durability as premium brands.
- Value Brands (e.g., Replacement): These are the most affordable options. While they will get your truck running, their materials and construction may not last as long. They are a good choice for a budget-conscious repair.
Estimated Replacement Costs
The cost to replace the ignition switch depends on the brand you choose and whether you do the work yourself.
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket Ignition Switch | $20.77 - $41.93 |
| Shop Labor | $90 - $150 |
| Total Professional Replacement | $110 - $192 |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Are there any recalls for the 1987-1988 R20 ignition switch?
No. Searches of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) database show no recalls for the ignition switch on the 1987-1988 Chevrolet R20. The well-known GM ignition switch recalls from the 2010s applied to much newer cars and do not affect this truck.
Do I need special tools to replace the ignition switch?
No, special tools are generally not required to replace the ignition switch itself. The job typically requires basic hand tools like a socket set and screwdrivers to remove the lower dash panels and access the switch on the steering column. Special tools like a steering wheel puller are needed for the lock cylinder, not the switch.
My key is stuck or hard to turn. Is that the ignition switch?
That is more likely a problem with the ignition lock cylinder, which is the mechanical part where you insert the key. A bad ignition switch is an electrical failure and usually doesn't affect how the key feels when it turns.
Can a bad ignition switch drain my battery?
Yes. If the switch fails to completely shut off all electrical circuits when you turn the key to the 'OFF' position, it can cause a slow parasitic drain that will leave you with a dead battery.
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 1116683 1116695 1116704 1116709 1116711 1116712
Located on the steering column, actuated by a rod connected to the lock cylinder. Controls power distribution to start, run, and accessory circuits.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
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