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Chevrolet V20 Suburban Ignition Switch Replacement Guide (1987-1988)

Solve starting problems and electrical issues by understanding how to choose the right new ignition switch for your Suburban.

4 minutes to read 1987-1988 Chevrolet V20 Suburban
Difficulty
2/5
Est. Time
1.5 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$100-$200
Used OEM Price
$15-$30
🚫 Do not drive — A faulty ignition switch can cause the engine to stall without warning, leading to a loss of power steering and brakes, which is a critical safety risk.
Key Takeaways
  • A failing ignition switch can cause a no-start condition or, more dangerously, cause the engine to stall while driving.
  • Perform the 'key wiggle test' to help confirm if the switch is worn out.
  • The ignition switch is a separate part from the lock cylinder; you will not need new keys.
  • For this vehicle, the switch is located on top of the steering column under the dash and is a DIY-friendly replacement.
The ignition switch is the main electrical hub that you control with your key. When you turn the key in your 1987-1988 V20 Suburban, the switch sends power from the battery to different systems. In the 'Accessory' position, it powers things like the radio. In the 'On' position, it powers the fuel pump, ignition system, and dashboard gauges. Finally, in the 'Start' position, it sends the signal to the starter motor to crank the engine. A working switch is critical for starting the truck and keeping it running.

Is Your Suburban's Ignition Switch Failing?

A faulty ignition switch in a 1987 or 1988 Chevrolet V20 Suburban can cause some confusing problems. The symptoms often look like a bad battery or a failed starter. The most serious issue is the engine stalling while you're driving, which can happen if the switch's internal contacts wear out and lose connection, especially when hitting a bump. This can lead to a sudden loss of power steering and brakes, creating a major safety risk.

The "Key Wiggle" Test

If you suspect your ignition switch is bad, try this simple test while the truck is safely parked. Start the engine, and then gently wiggle the key in the ignition. If wiggling the key causes the engine to sputter, the dashboard lights to flicker, or the engine to stall completely, the ignition switch is almost certainly worn out and needs to be replaced.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Ignition Switch

🎬 Watch this video to see common signs of a failure.
  • No Crank, No Start: You turn the key and nothing happens, or you only hear a single click. The switch isn't sending the electrical signal to the starter motor.
  • Starts, Then Immediately Stalls: The engine fires up while the key is in the 'START' position but dies as soon as you let it spring back to 'ON'. This means the switch isn't maintaining power to the ignition system.
  • Engine Stalls While Driving: A worn switch can momentarily cut power to the ignition or fuel pump, causing the engine to shut off without warning. This is a critical safety failure.
  • Electrical Accessories Don't Work: The radio, power windows, or dashboard lights don't work correctly or cut in and out.
  • Key is Hard to Turn: The key feels stuck or is difficult to turn in the ignition. This can be a problem with the switch or the lock cylinder it connects to.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Ignition Switch

For a vintage truck like the '87-'88 V20 Suburban, aftermarket parts are often the only practical choice. Original Equipment (OEM) parts are likely discontinued. Fortunately, aftermarket brands offer reliable options that meet or exceed original quality.

Aftermarket Brand Tiers

When shopping for a replacement, you'll find a few brands available. Here’s a general breakdown:

  • Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products): A well-known and trusted brand in the aftermarket. They produce a huge range of electrical parts and are generally considered a high-quality replacement option, often used by professional mechanics. Their parts are tested for fit and function.
  • Rostra Powertrain: Rostra is recognized for manufacturing both OE and replacement electronic parts. They emphasize quality control, with manufacturing facilities holding ISO-9001 and IATF-16949 certifications. This suggests a commitment to producing reliable, durable parts.
  • Replacement: This is often a house brand or a generic, unbranded part. These are the most budget-friendly options. While they can be a good value, quality can be inconsistent. For a critical part like an ignition switch, it's often worth spending a little more for a known brand.

Pro Tip: The ignition switch is a separate electrical component from the key lock cylinder. On these Suburbans, the switch is mounted on top of the steering column, under the dashboard, and is operated by a rod connected to the lock cylinder. You usually don't need to replace the lock cylinder unless your key is physically hard to turn or gets stuck.

Cost of Replacing a 1987-1988 V20 Suburban Ignition Switch

The cost to fix your ignition switch depends on whether you do it yourself or have a shop do the work.

Part or Service Estimated Cost
New Aftermarket Ignition Switch $20 - $45
Shop Labor $100 - $200
Total (DIY) $20 - $45
Total (Installed at a Shop) $120 - $245

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it hard to replace the ignition switch on my V20 Suburban?

The replacement is straightforward for a DIYer with some experience. It involves removing the lower dash panels to access the steering column. The switch is typically held on by two screws. The main challenge is working in a tight space under the dashboard. The steering column may need to be lowered by removing a few bolts to get enough clearance. Estimated time is about 1-2 hours.

Are there any recalls for the 1987-1988 Suburban ignition switch?

There are no direct recalls for the factory-installed ignition switch on the 1987-1988 Chevrolet V20 Suburban. However, a broader GM recall (NHTSA 14V-400) was issued for faulty aftermarket replacement switches made by a specific supplier that could have been installed on these vehicles during a previous repair.

Will a new ignition switch fix my 'no-start' problem?

It might. A bad ignition switch is one of several common causes for a no-start or crank-no-start condition. Other potential culprits include a dead battery, bad starter, faulty ignition control module, or fuel delivery issues. If you have power to your lights and accessories but the engine doesn't crank, the ignition switch is a strong possibility.

🎬 Learn more about the eight symptoms of a bad switch.
Do I need to get new keys with the ignition switch?

No. The ignition switch is the electrical part located on the steering column. The ignition lock cylinder is the mechanical part that your key goes into. You can replace the switch without changing your keys.

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Technical Specifications

The ignition switch is a rod-activated electrical switch mounted on the steering column, separate from the key and lock cylinder.

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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Ignition Switch for:
  • Chevrolet V20 Suburban: 19871988
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