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Ford Explorer Windshield Washer Pump Guide: 1991-1998

Everything you need to know about diagnosing and replacing the washer pump on your first or second generation Ford Explorer.

3 minutes to read 1991-1998 Ford Explorer
Difficulty
1/5
Est. Time
0.75 hrs
DIY Doable?
✅ Yes
Shop Labor
$50-$100
Used OEM Price
$15-$40
⚠️ Drivable, but... — Yes, but your ability to clear the windshield in bad weather will be compromised, which can be unsafe.
Key Takeaways
  • The washer pump is a common failure item, but check for blown fuses and corroded relays before replacing it.
  • Replacement is an easy DIY job that takes less than an hour with basic tools.
  • A quality aftermarket pump from a brand like ACDelco or Trico is a reliable and cost-effective choice over expensive OEM parts.
  • Ensure you buy the correct part for your year, as the 1991-1994 and 1995-1998 models may use different pumps.
The windshield washer pump in your 1991-1998 Ford Explorer is a small electric motor that sits on the washer fluid reservoir. When you press the washer button, this pump pushes fluid through hoses to the nozzles on your hood and rear liftgate. Your Explorer uses a single pump with two outlets, one for the front and one for the back. Relays tell the pump which outlet to send fluid to, ensuring you can clear your view no matter which window is dirty.

Is Your Windshield Washer Pump Failing?

When a washer pump on an older Explorer gives out, the signs are usually obvious. The most common failure is the internal motor simply wearing out. Before you buy a new part, it's smart to check a few other things first.

First, make sure your washer fluid reservoir is full. Next, check the fuse for the washer system. If the fuse is good, listen for the pump motor when you press the button. If you hear a humming sound but no fluid comes out, your lines or nozzles might be clogged. You can try cleaning the nozzle openings with a small pin. If you hear nothing at all, the pump is likely dead or not getting power.

Check the Relays First

On these Explorers, a common point of failure is not the pump itself, but the washer relays. These are often located in a small, secondary power box under the air cleaner assembly in the engine bay. This box is low to the ground and can get wet, causing the relays to corrode. If your pump isn't working, it's worth checking these relays for green corrosion before replacing the pump.

Choosing the Right Aftermarket Pump

For a vehicle of this age, an aftermarket washer pump is the most practical and cost-effective choice. The original Motorcraft pumps are expensive and hard to find. Aftermarket brands like ACDelco and Trico offer reliable quality that meets or exceeds the original part's performance for a fraction of the price.

  • ACDelco: A well-known brand that produces professional-grade aftermarket parts. Their pumps are built to match the original's fit and function, making for a dependable replacement.
  • Trico: Famous for wiper blades, Trico also makes quality washer system components. Their pumps are designed for an easy, direct-fit installation.

Both brands are a solid choice. Since the price difference is usually small, either will serve you well. The most important thing is to ensure you buy the correct pump for your specific model year, as there can be differences between the first (1991-1994) and second (1995-1998) generations.

Estimated Part & Labor Costs

Part/ServiceEstimated Cost
New Aftermarket Pump$23.94 - $40.86
New OEM (Motorcraft) Pump$180 - $220+
Shop Labor$50 - $100
Total (DIY Aftermarket)$23.94 - $40.86
Total (Shop Install Aftermarket)$75 - $140

DIY Installation Tips

Replacing the pump is a great DIY job. The pump is press-fit into a rubber grommet at the bottom of the washer reservoir on the passenger side. You may need to remove the air filter box for better access. Have a bucket ready to catch the old fluid when you pull the pump out. The new pump should come with a new grommet—always use it to prevent leaks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do my wipers move but no fluid sprays?

This usually means the wiper part of the switch is working, but the washer part isn't. The problem could be a dead pump, a bad relay, a blown fuse, or clogged lines. Start by listening for the pump's hum.

The rear washer works but the front doesn't. Is it the pump?

Not necessarily. Since a single pump feeds both front and rear, the issue is likely a bad relay or a clog in the lines going to the front nozzles. The relays control which direction the fluid is pumped.

Is it hard to replace the washer pump myself?

No, this is considered an easy repair. Basic hand tools are all that's needed. The main steps are accessing the reservoir, draining the fluid, swapping the pump and grommet, and reconnecting the hoses and electrical plug. The job typically takes less than an hour.

Should I buy an OEM/Motorcraft pump?

For this part on a 1991-1998 Explorer, it is not necessary. The cost of an OEM pump is significantly higher than a quality aftermarket one from a brand like ACDelco or Trico, with no real performance benefit for this simple component.

Technical Specifications

OEM Part Numbers: EOAZ-17664-A F1TZ-17618-A

Single pump with dual outlets for front and rear washers. Mounts to the washer fluid reservoir with a rubber grommet.

Wrenchy
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Meet Wrenchy → Updated Apr 19, 2026

The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.

Year Coverage
This article covers the Windshield Washer Pump for:
  • Ford Explorer: 19911992199319941995199619971998
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