A Home Mechanic's Guide to the 2004-2013 Chevrolet Colorado Universal Joint
Don't let a clunking or vibrating driveshaft sideline your truck; here's how to choose the right replacement U-joint.
- A clunk when shifting or a vibration at speed are the top signs your Colorado's U-joints are failing.
- Choose between maintenance-free sealed joints (like Spicer) for strength or greasable joints (like Moog) for serviceability, especially if you go off-road.
- Replacing all U-joints at once is the best practice, as they tend to wear out at a similar rate.
- Verify your truck's specific configuration (2WD/4WD, cab size) before ordering, as multiple U-joint sizes were used.
Is Your Colorado's U-Joint Failing?
A bad U-joint will give you clear warning signs. The most common symptom is a loud "clunk" or "bang" when you shift from Park into Drive or Reverse. This sound is caused by excessive play in the worn-out joint. You might also notice a cyclical squeaking noise that gets faster as you drive, especially at low speeds, which is a sign the joint has lost its grease. As the wear gets worse, it can cause a vibration throughout the truck at highway speeds, which is often mistaken for an unbalanced tire. If you see rust-colored dust or grease splattered on the underside of your truck near the driveshaft, it's a sure sign the U-joint seals have failed.
Don't Ignore the Signs
Continuing to drive with a bad U-joint is risky. A minor vibration can quickly get worse and damage other parts of your transmission or differential. In a worst-case scenario, the U-joint can break completely, causing the driveshaft to separate from the truck, which can lead to a total loss of power and a very dangerous situation.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint
When replacing your U-joints, you have a choice between OEM and aftermarket parts. For the 2004-2013 Colorado, many high-quality aftermarket brands offer excellent performance, often at a better price than dealer parts. Your main decision will be between greasable and non-greasable (sealed) joints.
Greasable vs. Sealed (Non-Greasable) U-Joints
🎬 Watch this comparison of greasable versus sealed U-joint designs.- Greasable U-Joints: These have a small zerk fitting that allows you to pump in fresh grease every 5,000 miles or so. This can flush out contaminants like water and dirt, which is a benefit for trucks that see off-road or heavy-duty use. Brands like Moog are well-known for their greasable options.
- Sealed (Non-Greasable) U-Joints: These are lubricated for life and require no maintenance. Many mechanics and manufacturers, including Dana Spicer, argue that sealed joints are stronger because the cross isn't drilled for a grease channel. They often feature better seals to keep contaminants out from the start and are a great "fit-it-and-forget-it" option for daily driving.
Pro Tip: Which is Better for Your Colorado?
For most Colorado owners who primarily drive on the street, a high-quality sealed U-joint from a brand like Dana Spicer is often the preferred choice for its strength and maintenance-free design. If you frequently go off-roading or simply prefer the ability to service your parts, a greasable U-joint from Moog or another reputable brand is a solid alternative.
Brand Quality Tiers
Based on owner feedback and mechanic consensus, aftermarket brands for your Colorado can be grouped into tiers:
- Premium Brands (High-Quality & Durability): Dana Spicer, SKF. Spicer is frequently cited as an OEM supplier and a top choice for durability.
- Trusted Aftermarket (Good Quality & Value): Moog, ACDelco Professional. Moog is well-regarded, especially for its greasable designs, though some feel quality has become inconsistent. ACDelco Professional offers good, reliable replacement quality.
- Standard/Economy (Budget-Friendly): GMB, house brands like Driveworks. These can be a good option for a tight budget but may not offer the same longevity as premium brands.
Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs
Searches for the 2004-2013 Chevrolet Colorado did not reveal any specific recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) from NHTSA directly related to the driveshaft universal joints. However, owners of 4WD models have noted that the front driveshaft's CV joints can be a weak point, especially on lifted or off-roaded trucks. While not a U-joint, it's a related driveline component to be aware of.
Estimated Costs
| Part/Service | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New Aftermarket U-Joints | $18 - $147 per joint |
| New OEM U-Joints | $106 - $181 per joint |
| Shop Labor | $156 - $229 |
| Total Professional Replacement | $291 - $480+ (for one or two joints) |
Note: Costs are estimates and can vary based on your location, the number of U-joints being replaced, and your specific truck configuration (2WD vs. 4WD).
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How many U-joints does my 2004-2013 Colorado have?
It depends on your truck's configuration. A 2WD model with a one-piece driveshaft typically has two U-joints. 4WD models and some 2WD models with a two-piece driveshaft will have three or more. It is crucial to inspect your specific vehicle to confirm the number and location before ordering parts.
Can I replace the U-joints myself? 🎬 See how to replace U-joints on a first-generation Colorado.
Yes, this is a DIY-feasible job for a mechanic with the right tools. It involves removing the driveshaft and using a U-joint press or a bench vise with sockets to press the old joints out and the new ones in. Renting a U-joint press from an auto parts store is highly recommended. The difficulty is moderate, and it can take 1-3 hours depending on your experience and if the old joints are seized.
Should I replace all the U-joints at once? 🎬 Learn more about driveshaft and U-joint replacement procedures.
It is highly recommended. If one U-joint has failed due to age and mileage, the others are likely not far behind. Replacing them all at the same time saves you from having to do the same job again in the near future and ensures the entire driveshaft is balanced and reliable.
What is the most common mistake when ordering?
The most common mistake is ordering the wrong size. The 2004-2013 Colorado used several different driveshaft and U-joint combinations depending on the cab, bed, and drivetrain configuration. Always verify the part numbers for your specific VIN or physically measure your old U-joints (cap diameter and overall length) before purchasing replacements.
Helpful Videos
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 89040245 89040243 84712242 89040339
U-joint sizes vary significantly based on the vehicle's drivetrain (2WD/4WD), cab configuration (Regular, Extended, Crew), and driveshaft type (one-piece or two-piece). Common aftermarket part numbers include Moog 354, 369, and 355. It is essential to verify the correct part for your specific vehicle.
We Have This Part in Stock
The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
- Chevrolet Colorado:
- 🎬 Helpful Videos
- 🛍️ Shop This Part
- Is Your Colorado's U-Joint Failing?
- Don't Ignore the Signs
- Choosing the Right Aftermarket U-Joint
- Greasable vs. Sealed (Non-Greasable) U-Joints
- Pro Tip: Which is Better for Your Colorado?
- Brand Quality Tiers
- Known Issues, Recalls, and TSBs
- Estimated Costs
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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