Chrysler 300 Ignition Switch and Starting Problems (2005-2023)
Having trouble starting your 300 or dealing with strange electrical issues? Your ignition switch might be the culprit.
- A major safety recall (NHTSA 14V-373) was issued for 2008-2010 models due to engine stalling; check if your vehicle is affected.
- Symptoms like a no-start or stalling can be caused by the ignition switch, not just a bad battery or starter.
- Replacing only the electronic switch component is a DIY-friendly job that does not require key reprogramming.
- The ignition system is different for 2005-2010 (keyed) vs. 2011-2023 (push-button) models, so ensure you buy the correct part.
Understanding Ignition Systems in the Chrysler 300
The Chrysler 300 uses two different types of ignition systems depending on the model year. It's important to know which one your car has.
- 2005-2010 Models: These vehicles use a traditional key that is inserted into a lock cylinder. The electronic ignition switch is a separate component located behind this lock cylinder. Problems often arise from the switch itself or a small plastic actuator pin that connects the lock cylinder to the switch.
- 2011-2023 Models: These vehicles feature a keyless entry system with a push-button start. The "ignition switch" is the start/stop button on the dash. These systems work with a key fob and a Radio Frequency Hub (RF Hub) module that detects the fob's presence.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch
A bad ignition switch can cause a variety of confusing problems. The symptoms can often be mistaken for a dead battery or a bad starter.
- Engine Stalls While Driving: This is the most dangerous symptom. The switch can lose connection, shutting off the engine and disabling power steering and brakes. This was the primary reason for a major safety recall.
- No-Start or Intermittent Starting: You turn the key or press the button and nothing happens, or it only works sometimes. You might hear a click, or you might hear nothing at all.
- Starts and Immediately Dies: The engine fires up but shuts down as soon as you release the key to the 'ON' position. This indicates the switch isn't providing power to the run circuits.
- Electrical Gremlins: Your dashboard lights, radio, or climate control may flicker or cut out while driving or when turning the key.
- Key Won't Turn or is Stuck: For keyed models, a worn-out switch or actuator can prevent the key from turning properly.
- "Key Fob Not Detected": On push-button models, this message can appear even with a good key fob battery, sometimes pointing to a faulty switch or RF Hub. 🎬 Learn how to troubleshoot and reset the RF Hub module.
Known Safety Recall: Engine Stalling
Chrysler issued a major safety recall (NHTSA campaign 14V-373, also known as R03) for many 2008-2010 models, including the Chrysler 300. The defect could cause the ignition key to move from the "ON" to the "ACCESSORY" position while driving due to road vibrations or the driver's knee bumping it. This would shut off the engine, power steering, power brakes, and airbags, significantly increasing the risk of a crash. The remedy involved replacing the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) module and the key fobs. If you own a 2008-2010 model, you should check with a dealer or on the NHTSA website to see if this recall was performed on your vehicle.
Choosing the Right Aftermarket Ignition Switch
When replacing your ignition switch, you have options. The OEM part is available, but quality aftermarket parts can offer a reliable repair, often at a better price. Here's a breakdown of common brand tiers:
- Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products): Often considered a premium aftermarket brand, SMP parts are known for their quality and reliability, sometimes rivaling OEM components. They are a solid choice for a long-lasting repair.
- Dorman: Dorman is a well-known brand that offers a wide range of replacement parts. For the Chrysler 300, they offer direct-fit replacement switches. While some Dorman parts are innovative, quality can sometimes be inconsistent depending on the specific product line. However, for a common part like an ignition switch, they are generally a reliable and cost-effective solution.
- Replacement / Store Brands: These are the most budget-friendly options. They meet the basic requirements to get your car running again and can be a good choice if you're on a tight budget or preparing to sell the vehicle. Longevity may not match that of premium brands.
| Part Type | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| New OEM | $110 - $250 |
| New Aftermarket | $34.34 - $180.53 |
| Shop Labor | $109 - $159 |
A Note on Programming
For both keyed and push-button systems, replacing only the electronic ignition switch or the button itself does not require reprogramming your keys or key fobs. The vehicle's security information is stored in a separate module. However, if the entire WIN module (on 2008-2010 models) or RF Hub (on 2011+ models) is replaced, programming by a dealer or a properly equipped locksmith will be necessary.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I replace the ignition switch myself?
Yes, this is a DIY-friendly job for many owners with basic tools. The process typically involves removing the lower dash panels and the steering column shrouds to access the switch. For keyed models, it's usually held on with a small Torx screw. For push-button models, the button often clips into the dash. The estimated time is about 1 to 1.5 hours.
🎬 Watch this step-by-step guide to replacing your ignition switch.My car won't start. How do I know it's the ignition switch?
First, rule out the simple things. Check that your car battery is charged and the terminals are clean. For push-button models, try replacing the battery in your key fob (usually a CR2032) or use the backup method of pressing the start button with the nose of the fob. 🎬 See how to start your car with a dead key fob. If these simple checks don't solve the problem, and you're experiencing intermittent starting or electrical issues, the ignition switch is a strong possibility.
What's the difference between the ignition switch and the lock cylinder?
The lock cylinder is the mechanical part that your key slides into. The ignition switch is the electronic component behind it that actually sends the electrical signals. Sometimes the cylinder is fine, but the switch has failed, or vice-versa. On some early 300s, a small plastic actuator pin between the two is a common failure point.
Can a bad ignition switch drain my car battery?
Yes. If the switch fails internally, it may not fully shut down the accessory power circuits when you turn the car off. This creates a parasitic drain that can leave you with a dead battery overnight or after a few days.
Helpful Videos
Technical Specifications
OEM Part Numbers: 4685719AI 4685863AA 68299959AC 1FU931X9AC
The Chrysler 300 uses two primary types of ignition switches. The 2005-2010 models use a multi-position electronic switch activated by a mechanical lock cylinder. The 2011-2023 models use a momentary push-button switch that communicates with the vehicle's keyless ignition module.
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The information in this article is provided for general reference and educational purposes only. Vehicle specifications, procedures, and part compatibility can vary by production date, trim level, and region. Always consult your vehicle's factory service manual and verify part numbers before purchasing or performing repairs. Safety-critical components such as airbags, seat belts, and braking systems should be installed by a qualified professional.
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