Verano, Cruze & Volt Steering Knuckle: Decoding Failures and Wheel Size Issues (2011-2017)

Variant Differences: The Most Important Compatibility Check

This compatibility difference applies to the Buick Verano and Chevrolet Cruze. The simplest way to check is to look at the tire size printed on your tire's sidewall (e.g., P215/60R16 would indicate a 16-inch wheel). Also, be aware that this part only fits the 2016 Chevrolet Cruze 'Limited' model, which was a carryover of the first generation. It does not fit the redesigned, second-generation 2016 Cruze.

Symptoms of a Bad or Bent Steering Knuckle

The steering knuckle itself is a very durable part and typically only fails after a significant impact, like hitting a curb, a deep pothole, or being in an accident. Most of the symptoms people associate with a "bad knuckle" are actually caused by the failure of a part it connects to, or by the knuckle being bent.

Grinding, Humming, or Growling Noises

A continuous grinding or humming noise that starts at low speeds and gets louder as you drive faster is a classic sign of a failing wheel bearing. The wheel bearing is pressed directly into the steering knuckle. While this is a bearing issue, if the bearing fails catastrophically, it can damage the bore inside the knuckle, requiring both parts to be replaced.

Vehicle Pulling to One Side

This is the most common symptom of a bent steering knuckle. If the knuckle is bent, it changes the angles of your suspension (known as camber and toe). This will cause the vehicle to constantly pull to the left or right, and you'll find yourself making constant steering corrections to drive straight. If an alignment shop tells you they can't get the car into specification, a bent knuckle is a primary suspect.

Clunking or Popping Sounds

Clunking or popping noises when turning at low speeds or going over bumps can point to several issues. While often caused by a worn ball joint or control arm bushing, a severely worn wheel bearing can also cause a clunk as the hub develops excessive play inside the knuckle. A cracked knuckle can also produce these sounds under load.

Uneven Tire Wear

A bent steering knuckle will cause rapid and uneven tire wear, usually on the inner or outer edge of a single tire. This is a direct result of the wheel being held at an incorrect angle, scrubbing the tire against the pavement.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no recalls specifically for steering knuckle failure across all these models, there have been related service campaigns and safety recalls.

• 2015 Buick Verano Service Update (SB-10057682-6371): GM issued a service bulletin for some 2015 Verano models where the right-hand tie rod may have been over-torqued to the steering knuckle at the factory. This could lead to a grinding or popping noise and steering looseness over time. The fix involved replacing the right-hand steering knuckle and outer tie rod.
• 2015-2016 Chevrolet Cruze Satisfaction Program (15622): A small number of Cruze vehicles may have had the left front knuckle-to-hub bolts improperly torqued. This could cause noise and, in a worst-case scenario, separation of the hub from the knuckle, leading to a loss of steering control. Dealers were instructed to inspect and torque the bolts to the correct specification.
• Chevy Volt & Buick Verano Steering Issues: Some owners of first-generation Volts and Veranos have reported issues with the electric power steering system, including a sticky or notchy feeling when driving straight for long periods. This is typically related to the steering gear or its software, not the knuckle itself, but can create confusing steering symptoms.

Buying a Used Steering Knuckle

A used OEM steering knuckle is an excellent, cost-effective alternative to a new part, especially since the knuckle itself is not a typical wear item. However, careful inspection is critical.

1. Verify Compatibility: First and foremost, confirm the wheel size (15" vs 16"+) from the donor vehicle. Ask the seller for the VIN or tire size of the car it came from. Do not purchase without verifying this information.
2. Inspect for Cracks: Carefully examine the entire knuckle, especially around the mounting points for the strut, ball joint, and tie rod. Pay close attention to the area where the wheel bearing is pressed in. Look for hairline cracks, which are a sign of stress or impact.
3. Check for Bends: A bent knuckle can be hard to spot with the naked eye. The best method is to compare it side-by-side with your old part or a known good one. Lay them on a flat surface to check for any warping. 🎬 Watch: How to visually inspect for a damaged steering knuckle A bent knuckle will cause persistent alignment problems.
4. Examine Mounting Holes: Check the tapered hole for the ball joint stud. If it appears oval-shaped, damaged, or excessively corroded, the knuckle should be rejected. A worn taper will prevent the new ball joint from seating correctly, leading to premature failure.
5. Plan for a New Bearing: NEVER reuse the wheel bearing from a used steering knuckle. Always press in a new, high-quality wheel hub and bearing assembly. The labor to remove the old bearing and install a new one is significant, so it's best to do it while the knuckle is off the car.

Cost of Replacement

The cost to replace a steering knuckle can vary based on your vehicle and local labor rates. An alignment is required after the job, adding to the total cost.

Cost estimates are for one side and can vary. Labor costs for a Chevrolet Cruze are estimated between $135 and $198, with the part around $155. For a Buick Verano, total replacement costs range from $560 to $623.

Related Parts to Replace at the Same Time

Replacing the steering knuckle requires disassembling most of the front suspension. This is the perfect time to replace other worn components. To save on future labor costs, consider replacing:

• Wheel Hub & Bearing Assembly: This is not optional. Always install a new bearing in a replacement knuckle.
• Lower Control Arm / Ball Joint: The ball joint must be separated from the knuckle. If the boot is torn or it shows any signs of wear, replace the control arm (which includes a new ball joint and bushings).
• Outer Tie Rod End: This is also disconnected during the job. Inspect it for play and replace if necessary.
• CV Axle Nut: This is a one-time-use, torque-to-yield fastener and must be replaced.
• Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts: These are often heavily corroded and can be difficult to remove. It's wise to have a new set on hand.

Installation Tips and Torque Specs

Replacing a steering knuckle is an advanced DIY job. If you proceed, be aware of these critical steps.

• The lower ball joint pinch bolt can be difficult to remove. Applying heat to the knuckle (carefully avoiding the ABS wire and ball joint boot) may be necessary.
• A ball joint separator or pickle fork will be needed to separate the ball joint and tie rod from the knuckle.
• CRITICAL: A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after replacing the steering knuckle to ensure safety, proper handling, and to prevent destroying your tires.

While specific torque values can vary by year and model, general specs for this platform are:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)