2013-2017 Hyundai Veloster Steering Knuckle: Diagnosing Noises, Bends, and Bearing Failure

Symptoms of a Failing Steering Knuckle

A steering knuckle is a robust piece of metal that does not have moving parts and typically does not "wear out" on its own. Failure is almost always caused by an external event like hitting a curb or a major pothole, or by the failure of a part attached to it, like the wheel bearing.

Noises and Vibrations

• Humming, Roaring, or Grinding Noise: This is the most common symptom, but it's almost always caused by the wheel bearing that is housed inside the knuckle, not the knuckle itself. The noise is speed-dependent, getting louder and higher-pitched as you drive faster. It may also change in volume when you turn the steering wheel slightly left or right on the highway.
• Clunking or Popping: A clunking sound when going over bumps or turning can indicate a worn ball joint or tie rod end attached to the knuckle. If the knuckle itself is cracked, it could also produce a clunking or creaking noise under stress.
• Squealing When Turning: A high-pitched squeal during low-speed turns, like in a parking lot, can point to a bent knuckle or a severely worn ball joint putting stress on the steering system.

Steering and Alignment Issues

• Vehicle Pulling to One Side: If the knuckle is bent from an impact, it will alter the suspension geometry. This can cause the vehicle to persistently pull to one side, a problem that a standard wheel alignment may not be able to correct.
• Uneven Tire Wear: A bent knuckle is a common cause of rapid and unusual tire wear. You might see excessive wear on the inner or outer edge of just one tire. This happens because the bent knuckle forces the wheel to sit at an incorrect angle (camber or toe).
• Steering Wheel Off-Center: After an impact, if your steering wheel is no longer straight when you're driving straight, a bent steering knuckle is a primary suspect, along with a bent tie rod.

Known Issues, TSBs, and Recalls

While there are no specific recalls for the steering knuckle on the 2013-2017 Hyundai Veloster, there are important Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related to steering noises that can be confused with a knuckle problem.

• TSB 17-ST-001: This bulletin addresses a common problem where the flexible rubber coupler in the Motor Driven Power Steering (MDPS) assembly disintegrates. This causes a clicking or thudding noise and a noticeable "play" in the steering wheel, especially when turning. The issue is covered for 2012-2015 Velosters. 🎬 See this walkthrough for fixing a clicking steering wheel Many owners report this failure, and it is often misdiagnosed as a suspension issue. The repair involves replacing a small, inexpensive rubber part, but the labor can be significant as the steering column must be partially disassembled.
• TSB 18-ST-001: This TSB addresses a noise that can develop in the steering rack support yoke for all 2011-2017 Veloster models. This is less common but can be another source of steering-related noise.

Buying a Used Steering Knuckle

A used OEM steering knuckle is an excellent, cost-effective alternative to an expensive new part, as it's a component that doesn't wear out from mileage. However, careful inspection is critical to ensure you get a good part.

Physical Inspection Checklist

• Check for Cracks: Thoroughly inspect the entire knuckle for hairline cracks, especially around the wheel bearing bore and the mounting points for the strut, ball joint, and brake caliper.
• Look for Bending or Impact Damage: It can be hard to see a slight bend, but look for scrapes, deep gouges, or deformation, particularly on the arm where the tie rod connects. Compare it to a picture of a new part if possible. A bent knuckle is junk.
🎬 Watch: How to check for a damaged steering knuckle
• Inspect Mounting Holes: Ensure the holes for the strut bolts and caliper bracket bolts are round and not elongated or damaged. Check the tapered hole for the ball joint and tie rod end for any signs of excessive wear or distortion.
• Condition of Included Parts: A used knuckle may come with the hub, bearing, or dust shield. Consider these bonuses, but do not trust the used wheel bearing.

Compatibility

Based on Hyundai's official parts data, the same steering knuckle fits all 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017 Hyundai Veloster models, including Base, Turbo, and R-Spec trims. While some aftermarket catalogs may incorrectly list different parts for different years or trims, the OEM parts are consistent across this entire model range. Always verify the part by its OEM number if possible.

• Left (Driver Side) OEM Part Number: 51715-2V000 (may be superseded by 51715-A5000)
• Right (Passenger Side) OEM Part Number: 51716-2V000 (may be superseded by 51716-A5000)

Cost of Replacing a 2013-2017 Veloster Steering Knuckle

The total cost can vary significantly based on the parts you choose and local labor rates. A wheel alignment is mandatory after replacement, which adds to the final cost.

Related Parts to Replace

Replacing the steering knuckle provides the perfect opportunity to service other related wear items. Addressing these parts at the same time can save you significant labor costs down the road.

• Wheel Bearing: Mandatory replacement. A new bearing should always be pressed into a replacement knuckle.
• Axle Nut: This is a one-time-use, torque-to-yield fastener and must be replaced with a new one.
• Lower Ball Joint: Inspect for any play or torn boots. Since it must be separated from the knuckle anyway, this is the ideal time for replacement.
🎬 Watch: How to replace the wheel bearing and ball joint
• Outer Tie Rod End: Like the ball joint, this must be disconnected. Inspect it for wear and replace if necessary.

Installation Tips and Torque Specs

This job is considered difficult for a DIY mechanic primarily because it requires a hydraulic shop press to remove the old wheel bearing and install the new one. Without a press, you risk damaging the new bearing or the knuckle itself.

• Axle Nut: 145 - 202 lb-ft (196 - 274 N.m). This is a critical torque spec. The nut must be staked (crimped) into the axle shaft keyway after tightening.
• Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts: 72 - 87 lb-ft (This is a general spec, always verify for your specific model).
• Tie Rod End Castle Nut: 17 - 25 lb-ft (23 - 33 N.m). Always install a new cotter pin.
• Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut: 32 lb-ft (43 N.m) is a general spec. Always install a new cotter pin.