C0045 on 2011-2014 Chrysler 200: Left Rear Wheel Speed Circuit Fixes

What's Unique About the 2011-2014 Chrysler 200

On the 2011-2014 Chrysler 200 and its platform-mate, the Dodge Avenger, the component the sensor reads (the 'tone ring') is a magnetic encoder ring that is integrated directly into the wheel hub and bearing assembly. This design means that if the ring is damaged, cracked, or has lost its magnetic properties, the entire wheel hub assembly must be replaced, not just the sensor. This is a frequent point of failure and a common reason why simply replacing the sensor doesn't always fix the code.

Symptoms You May Notice

• ABS warning light is on
• Traction control or Electronic Stability Control (ESC) warning light is on
• ABS and traction control systems are disabled and will not activate

Most Likely Causes

1. Failed Left Rear Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly 🔴 High Probability → Shop Hub Assembly The magnetic encoder ring integrated into the hub is exposed to the elements. Over time, water intrusion can cause the bearing to fail, and rust or debris can damage the magnetic ring, causing it to crack, flake, or lose its signal. This is a well-documented failure mode for this platform.
   How to confirm: After removing the wheel and brake rotor, visually inspect the magnetic ring on the back of the hub for cracks, missing pieces, or a build-up of metallic debris. A YouTube video by 'Busted to Built' shows a 2014 Chrysler 200 with this exact failure, revealing a missing piece of the magnetic ring on the old hub. If the sensor and wiring are good, the hub is the next likely culprit.
   Typical fix: Replace the entire left rear wheel hub and bearing assembly.
   Est. part cost: $100-$200
2. Failed Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 🟡 Medium Probability → Shop ABS Wheel Speed Sensor The sensor is located in a harsh environment near the wheel, exposed to water, dirt, salt, and vibrations, which can cause it to fail internally over time.
   How to confirm: Use a scan tool to monitor live data; the left rear wheel should show 0 MPH or an erratic speed while the other wheels report correctly. You can also test the sensor's internal resistance with a multimeter (if it's a passive sensor) and compare it to the manufacturer's specification. The sensor can be removed (typically one 10mm bolt) for inspection.
   Typical fix: Replace the left rear wheel speed sensor. It is typically held in by a single bolt.
   Est. part cost: $25-$75
3. Damaged Wiring or Connector 🟡 Medium Probability The wiring harness runs down to the wheel and is susceptible to damage from road debris, improper routing, or corrosion at the connector pins.
   How to confirm: Visually inspect the entire length of the wiring from the sensor to where it enters the main body harness. Check for chafed wires, breaks, or green corrosion inside the connector. Unplug the connector and check for pin fit and any signs of moisture intrusion.
   Typical fix: Repair the broken wire or replace the pigtail connector.
   Est. part cost: $15-$40

Rare But Worth Checking

• Failed ABS Control Module: → Shop ABS Control Module This is the least likely cause. The ABS module is the computer that controls the system. It should only be considered after all other possibilities (sensor, hub, wiring) have been thoroughly tested and ruled out.

Diagnosis Steps

1. Connect an ABS-capable OBD-II scanner and confirm the presence of code C0045.
2. View the live data stream for all four wheel speed sensors. While driving slowly or spinning the wheel by hand, confirm that the left rear sensor reads 0 MPH or has an erratic signal compared to the other three.
3. Safely raise and support the vehicle, then remove the left rear wheel.
4. Perform a thorough visual inspection of the wheel speed sensor, its wiring harness, and the connector. Look for any signs of physical damage, chafing, or corrosion.
5. Disconnect the sensor and inspect the connector pins for corrosion or damage.
6. Remove the brake caliper, bracket, and rotor to gain access to the wheel hub assembly.
7. Inspect the magnetic encoder ring on the inboard side of the hub. Look for cracks, swelling, missing chunks, or a heavy buildup of metallic debris. This is the most critical inspection step.
8. If the hub and wiring look good, the sensor is the most likely suspect. It can be tested with a multimeter for resistance or by back-probing to check for a signal while spinning the wheel.
9. If the sensor, hub, and wiring all test good, the fault may lie within the ABS control module, which requires advanced diagnostics.

Parts You'll Likely Need

• Left Rear Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly (OEM #512332 (Common aftermarket reference for FWD)) — The integrated magnetic encoder ring on the hub is a common failure point. Damage to this ring requires replacement of the entire hub assembly.
  Trusted brands: Timken, MOOG, SKF, Duralast
  OEM price range: $150-$250
  Aftermarket price range: $80-$150
• Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (OEM #56029339AD (supersedes 56029339AC, 056029339AB)) — The sensor itself can fail from exposure to the elements. It is a common first part to be replaced, though the hub is also a very likely cause.
  Trusted brands: Mopar, Standard Motor Products (SMP), Delphi, Bosch
  OEM price range: $50-$100
  Aftermarket price range: $25-$75

Platform-Specific Known Issues

• Real-World Repair: Hub Failure on a 2014 Chrysler 200: A YouTube video from the 'Busted to Built' channel (Oct 15, 2022) documents the diagnosis and repair for ABS/Traction lights on a 2014 Chrysler 200. The scanner showed codes C1011 (Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Erratic) and C1041 (Left Front Tone Wheel Performance). Upon disassembly, the mechanic found a piece of the magnetic tone ring on the wheel hub had broken off, causing the erratic signal. Replacing the entire wheel hub assembly and reusing the original sensor fixed the issue, confirming the hub as the root cause.

Mechanic-Grade Diagnostic Values

• Passive Wheel Speed Sensor Resistance — expected: 800 - 1,700 Ohms (vehicle dependent, but a common range). Failure: An open circuit (infinite resistance) or a short (near zero resistance) indicates a failed sensor.
• Passive Wheel Speed Sensor AC Voltage Output — expected: Greater than 100 millivolts (0.1V) AC when spinning the wheel by hand.. Failure: No AC voltage produced while the wheel is spinning points to a failed sensor or a problem with the tone ring.
• ABS Module Power Fuses — expected: Fuse #34 (30A) and Fuse #35 (40A) in the under-hood fuse box should have continuity.. Failure: A blown fuse will cut power to the ABS module, disabling the system.

Scan Tool Commands That Help

• wiTECH (Chrysler Dealer Tool): View Topology / Live Data — To view the live data stream from all four wheel speed sensors simultaneously to confirm the left rear is the one malfunctioning. The network topology view can also help identify communication issues between the ABS module and other vehicle systems.
• wiTECH (Chrysler Dealer Tool): Check for ABS Module Software Updates — While less common for a specific wheel speed circuit code, it's good practice to check for any available software updates for the ABS module, as bulletins are sometimes released to improve system performance or fix software-related glitches.

Wiring & Ground Locations

• ABS Control Module — Located on the driver's side of the engine bay, under the hood, behind the engine.. This is the termination point for the wheel speed sensor wiring. The main connector to this module is a critical point to check for corrosion or pin damage if the sensor and harness at the wheel test good.
• ABS Module Fuses (F34, F35) — In the main fuse box located in the engine compartment.. These two high-amperage fuses supply main power to the entire ABS module. While a failure is unlikely to isolate to a single wheel circuit, checking them is a fundamental first step in any ABS diagnosis.
• Wheel Speed Sensor Connector — At the left rear wheel hub, connecting the sensor pigtail to the main body harness.. This 2-wire connector is highly exposed to water, salt, and road debris, making it a common point of failure due to corrosion or physical damage. Aftermarket pigtail connectors are available for repair.

Real Owner Repair Stories

• Reddit r/MechanicAdvice (2012 Chrysler 200) — Unwanted ABS activation at very low speeds (creeping to a stop), but no ABS/Traction lights and no stored trouble codes.
  ❌ Tried (didn't work) Flushing extremely dirty brake fluid., Replacing the ABS module with a used unit from a wrecker., Cleaning the ABS module ground.
  ✅ What actually fixed it The user did not post a final fix, but the symptoms (low-speed activation, no codes) and scope readings showing signal disruption across all sensors pointed towards a failing magnetic encoder ring on one of the wheel hubs causing an erratic signal that the ABS module misinterpreted as wheel lock-up.
• CorvetteForum (similar principle) (Corvette C6) — Service ABS, Traction Control, Active Handling lights on with code C0045.
  ❌ Tried (didn't work) Cleaning the sensor connector., Replacing the entire left rear wheel hub assembly (which included a new sensor).
  ✅ What actually fixed it The user was advised to check for continuity and shorts-to-ground in the wiring harness between the wheel speed sensor connector and the main EBCM (ABS module) connector, specifically looking for issues at intermediate connectors (like C184 on that vehicle). The problem was upstream from the hub.
• NHTSA ODI #11165895 (Chevrolet Equinox) — An owner reported that a service center identified code C0045 and recommended replacing the left rear hub bearing assembly, although the duration of the warning message varied from seconds to minutes before lights extinguished.
• NHTSA ODI #11219167 (Cadillac SRX) — A report describes code C0045 occurring at 96,020 miles due to a broken left rear wheel speed sensor encoder ring, which required replacing both the speed sensor and the rear hub assembly.

OEM Part Supersession History

• 056029339AB → 56029339AD — Part revision by manufacturer.

Diagnostic Flowchart

Other Known Issues on This Vehicle

Issues unrelated to this code that are worth knowing about as an owner of this generation:

• Early 3.6L Pentastar V6 Left Cylinder Head Failure 🔴 High — Primarily affects 2011-2013 models. Symptoms include a ticking noise, engine misfires (codes P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306), and loss of power. Caused by excessive wear on valve seats. (Ref: Chrysler issued an extended warranty (10 years/150,000 miles) for the left cylinder head on affected models.)
• Clogged Heater Core 🟠 Medium — A common complaint across all 1st-gen 200s, leading to no heat from the vents. Often caused by casting sand from engine manufacturing clogging the heater core passages.
• 62TE Automatic Transmission Problems 🔴 High → Shop Transmission Assembly — The 6-speed automatic can suffer from solenoid pack failures, torque converter issues, and premature clutch wear, leading to harsh shifting, slipping, or getting stuck in gear.
• Throttle Body Failure (2.4L Engine) 🟠 Medium — The 2.4L 'World' engine is prone to throttle body failure, causing an erratic idle, stalling, and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) warning light.
• Engine Stalling While Driving 🔴 High — An issue investigated by the NHTSA for 2011-2013 models where a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) could cause the engine to stall during low-speed deceleration. (Ref: NHTSA investigation PE12023 was opened, but a formal recall may not cover all vehicles.)

Used vs. New Parts: Buying Guide for This Vehicle

When a used part is the smart pick: A used wheel speed sensor or a wiring pigtail from a junkyard can be a cost-effective option, as these parts don't typically wear out with mileage but fail due to damage or corrosion. A used ABS module is also a possibility, but may require programming to the vehicle.

Donor-vehicle mileage cap: roughly under 100000 miles for the part to have meaningful remaining life.

What to inspect on the donor part:

• For wiring: Inspect for any cuts, chafing, or corrosion on the connector pins. Ensure the locking tabs are intact.
• For sensors: Check for physical damage to the sensor body or cracks where the wire enters.
• For hubs: Avoid. A used wheel hub/bearing is never recommended as the bearing has a finite lifespan and the condition of the integrated magnetic ring is unknown.

OEM-only on this vehicle (don't cheap out):

• ABS Control Module: While used is possible, a new OEM module is the most reliable (though expensive) fix to avoid issues with programming and internal faults. Aftermarket modules are not widely available.

Aftermarket brands forum-validated for this vehicle:

• Hub Assemblies: Timken and SKF are consistently rated as top-tier aftermarket brands, often considered OEM-quality or better.
• Sensors: Standard Motor Products (SMP), Delphi, and Bosch are reputable brands for sensors.

Brands owners have reported issues with on this vehicle:

• Hub Assemblies: Some users have reported premature failures with certain Moog hub assemblies due to their manufacturing origin changing. Cheaper, unbranded 'white-box' parts from online marketplaces often have a higher failure rate.

Real Owner Stories

Aggregated from forums and TSBs cited above. Mileages and costs reflect what owners reported in those sources.

Documented NHTSA Reports

Related OBD-II Codes

• C1011 — Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Erratic — often triggered by the same magnetic tone ring failure on the wheel hub assembly seen in C0045.
• C1041 — Left Front Tone Wheel Performance — directly related to physical damage or debris on the magnetic encoder ring of the hub.
• P0300 — Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire — a common companion code on 2011-2013 models experiencing the known left cylinder head failure.
• P0302 — Cylinder 2 Misfire — specifically associated with the 3.6L Pentastar left cylinder head wear issue (Cylinders 2, 4, 6).
• P0304 — Cylinder 4 Misfire — specifically associated with the 3.6L Pentastar left cylinder head wear issue (Cylinders 2, 4, 6).
• P0306 — Cylinder 6 Misfire — specifically associated with the 3.6L Pentastar left cylinder head wear issue (Cylinders 2, 4, 6).

Frequently Asked Questions