Buy Chrysler Town & Country Alternators

The alternator is the on‑board generator that keeps your minivan's battery full and powers every light, screen, and motor while the engine runs. Chrysler equips most 2001‑2016 Town & Country vans with 160‑, 180‑, or 220‑amp units, and a few trim lines even offer high‑output options for heavy power loads. When the alternator weakens, voltage drops, lights dim, computers glitch, and the battery dies fast-often without warning. (AAA)

Inside its aluminum shell, the rotor spins inside a stator to create alternating current that is converted to the 13.8 - 14.6‑volt direct current your van needs. (Wikipedia, Battery University) Chrysler's power‑train computer controls alternator output through pulse‑width modulation (PWM) signals for smooth, on‑demand charging. (Charm)

• Typical output: 13.8 - 14.6 V at idle or above (Battery University)
• Common ratings: 160 A (standard), 180 A (touring trims), 220 A (towing or power‑sliding‑door vans)
• Drive method: One serpentine belt that also turns the water pump, A/C compressor, and power‑steering pump. (MediaRoom)

• Battery light or "ALT" lamp comes on. (AAA)
• Headlights or dash lights flicker or look dim. (AAA Club Alliance)
• Van stalls soon after a jump‑start because the battery isn't being topped up. (AAA)
• Burning‑rubber smell or squealing belt noises if the pulley seizes or the belt slips. (Family Handyman)
• Repeated dead‑battery episodes even with a new battery. (AAA Club Alliance)

• Heat & diode fatigue: FCA's own investigation linked high under‑hood temps to diode breakdown in 160‑, 180‑, and 220‑amp units.
• Accessory overload: Extra audio amps, wheelchair lifts, or camping inverters push the charging system past its design limit.
• Worn bearings or pulley clutch: Causes wobble, belt noise, and voltage dips.
• Loose or glazed belt: A slipping belt starves the alternator at low rpm. (MediaRoom)

A 2017 FCA recall (NHTSA #17V435) covered certain 2011‑2014 Town & Country vans with the 220‑amp alternator that could short internally, stall the engine, or in rare cases start a fire. Owners can check their VIN on the official NHTSA site.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable-never pull a cable while the engine runs. (Family Handyman)
2. Relieve tension and slip off the serpentine belt.
3. Unplug the main B+ lead and voltage‑sense plug.
4. Remove the three mounting bolts and lift out the unit.
5. Match pulley and amp rating on the new generator before re‑installing. (Haynes Publishing)
6. Torque bolts to spec, refit the belt, reconnect the battery, then confirm 13.8‑14.6 V across the posts at idle. (Battery University)

(Some 3.6 L models require dropping the A/C compressor first; consult a service manual if space is tight.)

• 2008‑2010 (3.3 L & 3.8 L): 160 A standard, 180 A optional.
• 2011‑2016 (3.6 L Pentastar): 180 A standard; 220 A on tow‑package or dual‑screen entertainment vans.

Always match the amperage, mounting ears, and 6‑groove pulley to avoid belt‑tracking issues.

• Inspect the serpentine belt every oil change for cracks, fraying, or glazing. (MediaRoom)
• Check charging voltage with a digital multimeter; 13 V or less at idle signals trouble. (Family Handyman)
• Keep battery terminals clean-high resistance forces the alternator to work harder.
• Limit long idling with power‑hungry accessories (DVD screens, heaters) to extend diode life.

• Battery: Stores energy made by the alternator.
• Voltage regulator: Built into the PCM/TIPM on late‑model Chryslers-failure can mimic alternator problems. (Allpar)
• Serpentine belt & tensioner: Provide correct drive speed; replace at 96 000‑145 000 km or sooner if noisy. (MediaRoom)
• Fusible link / alternator fuse: Blows during severe shorts; always check if there is zero charge output. (JustAnswer)

Remanufacturing an alternator cuts raw‑material use by roughly 80 % and energy consumption by about 85 %, slashing greenhouse‑gas emissions versus building a new unit. (ResearchGate) Core recycling also keeps copper and steel out of landfills and aligns with EPA guidelines on reducing hazardous waste. (US EPA)

Always disconnect the battery before service, wear eye protection, and avoid dropping metal tools across the hot B+ stud. High‑current shorts can melt tools in seconds. (Family Handyman)

• Amperage: Choose equal or higher amps if you've added extra electronics.
• Clocking position: Ensure the rear housing's plug orientation matches your van.
• Pulley type: Over‑running clutch pulleys reduce belt whip and noise at shutdown. (Family Handyman)
• Warranty & test sheet: Look for bench‑test data that shows ripple and output under load.
• Reman vs. new: Quality remans perform like new while saving money and resources. (ResearchGate)

For belt diagrams, torque specs, and step‑by‑step photos, see the free Haynes tutorial on alternator replacement. (Haynes Publishing) Dive deeper into belt care with the non‑profit Car Care Council's belt guide. And check your VIN for open recalls at the official NHTSA portal.

Use these sections as building blocks to craft rich, reader‑friendly pages that answer virtually every question about the Chrysler Town & Country alternator.