Buy Ford F-100 Disc Brake Rotors

Ford F-100 disc brake rotors-sometimes called brake discs or simply rotors-were factory-fitted on half-ton trucks beginning with the 1973 sixth-generation F-Series. These cast-iron, vented front rotors measure about 11.72 inches in diameter and 1.185 inches thick, and they continued in various forms through the 1983 final model year of the F-100. Knowing their size, material, torque values, common wear signs, and safe service steps helps owners stop safely, avoid vibration, and pick the right replacement parts. (Ford Trucks, Wikipedia)

Front disc brakes became standard equipment on the F-100 in the 1973 model year; earlier trucks used four-wheel drums unless converted later. (Fordification, Wikipedia)
* 1973-1979 (6th generation) trucks share the same basic vented-rotor design. (Wikipedia)
* 1980-1983 models kept similar specs, so many rotors interchange across these years. (Amazon)
* Pre-1973 owners often add drum-to-disc conversion kits so maintenance advice below still applies. (Facebook)

Rotors are usually cast from gray cast iron, prized for its ability to absorb and shed heat without warping. (Wikipedia)
The metal's graphite flakes also dampen noise, making iron a quiet performer under the squeeze of brake pads. (Wikipedia)
Modern upgrades may use high-carbon or composite alloys, but the cooling principle is the same: friction turns motion into heat that the disc must radiate away. See how a disc works in detail on this .

A frequently cited replacement rotor for 1975-1976 F-100 trucks lists:

• Outside diameter ≈ 11.72 in (297.7 mm)
• Nominal thickness ≈ 1.185 in (30.1 mm)
• Discard (minimum) thickness ≈ 1.120 in (28.45 mm)
• Five-lug vented hub with 5-on-5.5 in bolt circle
  (eBay)

Always verify your exact year's dimensions before ordering. Rotors worn past discard thickness must be replaced, not resurfaced.

• Pedal & wheel shake when braking signals a warped disc. (HowStuffWorks)
• Pulsation in normal stops hints the rotor surface is uneven. (Car and Driver)
• Grooves or blue spots point to overheating or metal-on-metal contact; replace both rotors and pads together.
• Rust scaling on unused trucks can reduce pad contact area and lengthen stopping distance.

Vented rotors flow air between the rotor faces to cool faster than solid discs, reducing fade on long downhill grades. (HowStuffWorks, Wikipedia)
Performance options add slots or cross-drill holes to sweep water, dust, and gas while trimming weight-handy if you tow or drive in wet climates.

• Torque lug nuts evenly in a star pattern to avoid warping. A calibrated wrench and slow, steady pulls are your best friends-see general torque guidance here. (Ford Trucks)
• After heavy braking, coast a short distance to let air cool the discs before parking.
• Flush brake fluid every two years to protect caliper seals and keep rotor temps down.
• Clean the hub face and apply a very thin coat of high-temperature grease so the rotor mounts flat.

1. Lift and secure the front axle on stands.
2. Remove wheel, caliper, and old rotor.
3. Inspect wheel bearings; repack or replace if needed.
4. Slide on the new rotor; reinstall bearings and washer.
5. Adjust the inner nut to 50 ft-lb, then back off 90°, install the retainer, and snug the outer lock-nut. (Ford Trucks)
6. Reinstall caliper, pads, and wheel; torque lugs as noted below.

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*Always consult your truck's shop manual for confirmation.

When replacing discs, also inspect:

• Brake pads for even wear and thickness.
• Calipers & hoses for leaks or sticking pistons.
• Wheel bearings-fresh grease prevents rotor run-out.
• Master cylinder & fluid; a soft pedal can mask rotor issues.

Factory service bulletins and recalls focus largely on later F-Series brake hardware; you can search your VIN for open campaigns at NHTSA's recall site. Keeping the braking system stock-spec and well-maintained is the easiest path to avoiding problems. (NHTSA)

Q: How do I know if my F-100 has disc or drum brakes?
A: Look through the wheel spokes; a shiny flat disc means disc brakes, while a closed cast-iron drum indicates drums. 1973-83 half-ton models came with front discs from the factory. (Wikipedia)

Q: Can I resurface my rotors instead of buying new ones?
A: Only if thickness remains above 1.185 inches after machining; many worn units are already near the discard limit, so replacement is safer. (eBay)

Q: What causes a steering-wheel shake when I brake?
A: Warped rotors or uneven lug-nut torque are the usual culprits. (HowStuffWorks)

Q: Are vented or drilled rotors worth the money?
A: Vented rotors cool faster; slotted or drilled designs help keep pads clean and reduce fade during heavy towing or mountain driving. (HowStuffWorks)

Q: What material are F-100 rotors made from?
A: Most are gray cast iron, chosen for its heat handling and cost. (Wikipedia)

Q: Do I need to replace pads when I swap rotors?
A: Yes. Mixing new rotors with worn pads can cause noise and uneven braking.

Q: How tight should I torque the wheel lugs?
A: For ½-inch studs, 90-110 ft-lb is typical; always tighten in a criss-cross pattern to avoid rotor distortion. (Ford Trucks)

Q: My 1968 F-100 still has drums-can I upgrade?
A: Yes, bolt-on conversion kits add front discs and use later F-100 rotors; expect better stopping and easier maintenance. (Facebook)

Q: How long should a rotor last?
A: Lifespan varies; heavy use or towing shortens life, while gentle driving extends it. Pay attention to vibration or thickness checks during every pad change. (Car and Driver)

Q: Does rust ruin a rotor?
A: Light surface rust is normal and scrubbed off by the pads. Deep pitting, however, weakens the disc and warrants replacement.

Creating content that balances clarity with key specifications makes it easier for every reader-from DIYers to first-time owners-to find, understand, and care for Ford F-100 disc brake rotors.