Buy Ford F-250 Distributors

A Ford F-250 distributor (also called an ignition distributor, spark distributor, or ÒdizzyÓ) is the part that sends high-voltage spark to each plug in the right order and at the right time. Older F-250 gas engines used it; newer trucks switched to distributor-less systems. If your truck has a cap and rotor, you have a distributor. (Encyclopedia Britannica, Wikipedia)

The distributor routes the coil's spark to each cylinder through the rotor and cap, firing each plug at the correct moment so the engine runs smooth. In classic systems a cam and points handled the timing; later Ford systems used electronic sensors instead of points. (Encyclopedia Britannica, Wikipedia)

Most gasoline F-250s through the mid-1990s used a distributor-common engines include the 4.9L inline-6, 5.0L, 5.8L ÒWindsor,Ó and 7.5L (460) V8. By the late 1990s, Ford moved to distributor-less ignition (coil packs and then coil-on-plug) on its newer Modular V8s and the 1999-up Super Duty line. Diesels (like the 7.3L Power Stroke) never used a distributor because they ignite fuel by compression and use glow plugs only for cold starting. (Wikipedia)

* Duraspark (mid-1970s-1980s): Electronic pickup in the distributor, separate fender-mounted module; typically kept mechanical and vacuum advance. (Wikipedia)
* EEC-III/IV with TFI (1980s-mid-1990s): Hall-effect sensor inside the distributor and a Thick Film Ignition (TFI) module; the PCM controls timing via the SPOUT signal, so base timing is set with the SPOUT disconnected. Many later TFIs were moved off the distributor to reduce heat. (Wikipedia)
* Distributor-less (wasted-spark and coil-on-plug): Eliminates the distributor entirely, improving reliability and reducing moisture-related problems. (Wikipedia)

Common issues include worn cap/rotor contacts, carbon tracking, cracked caps (especially after temperature swings), moisture inside the cap, worn shaft bushings, and failing modules or pickups. These can cause hard starts, misfires, rough idle, stalling, or no-start. (HowStuffWorks, hagerty.com)

* Misfires or rough idle that get worse in the rain (moisture inside the cap). (HowStuffWorks)
* Crank/no-start with spark at the coil wire but not at plugs (failed cap/rotor). (vintage-mustang.com)
* Random stalling after warm-up (can be an ignition module/TFI-related issue on 1980s-1990s Fords). (The Center for Auto Safety)

* Visual: Remove the cap. Look for cracks, green/white corrosion, carbon lines, or a loose/wobbly rotor shaft. (hagerty.com)
* Spark check: If the coil fires but plugs don't, suspect the cap/rotor. (vintage-mustang.com)
* Heat/TFI: If an EEC-IV Ford stalls hot and restarts cold, inspect the TFI module and consider remote-mounting on heat-sink style brackets used by Ford on some later models. (Wikipedia)

* Mark everything: Before removal, mark the distributor body and rotor position.
* Bring #1 to TDC on compression to make re-stab easier.
* Swap cap/rotor and gasket if they're worn-these are normal tune-up items.
* On EEC-IV/TFI trucks, set base timing with the SPOUT connector unplugged, then plug it back in so the PCM can control timing.

ÒIgnition timingÓ is when spark happens. Older Ford systems used mechanical and vacuum advance; computer-controlled (EEC-III/IV) systems use the PCM to add advance based on load, rpm, and temperature. Vacuum advance improves cruise economy on engines that have it. (Wikipedia)

Gas engines need a spark system with a distributor or coils; diesel engines use compression to ignite fuel and don't use a distributor at all (glow plugs just help cold starts). (Wikipedia)

Distributor assembly, ignition distributor, cap and rotor, reluctor, Hall-effect pickup (PIP), TFI module, vacuum advance canister, SPOUT connector, coil-on-plug (COP), wasted-spark.

If you live where emissions rules apply, keep your ignition parts emissions-compliant. The U.S. EPA enforces anti-tampering rules, and California uses CARB ÒExecutive OrdersÓ (EOs) for legal aftermarket parts. Check local laws and part labels before modifying timing or ignition hardware. (US EPA, law.cornell.edu)

* What a distributor and cap/rotor do (easy overview). (HowStuffWorks)
* How a distributor routes spark (simple explanation). (Encyclopedia Britannica)
* Ford Duraspark and EEC/TFI history (how Ford's systems evolved). (Wikipedia)
* Why modern trucks dropped distributors (wasted-spark & COP). (Wikipedia)

* Match by engine (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L) and year-fit differs across generations.
* Inspect cap/rotor regularly; replace if cracked, burned, or corroded. (HowStuffWorks)
* For EEC-IV/TFI trucks: after installation, set base timing with SPOUT unplugged; then reconnect it so the PCM can control timing. (Wikipedia)

* Distributor overview from Britannica (clear basics). (Encyclopedia Britannica)
* How distributor caps and rotors work (plain-language explainer). (HowStuffWorks)
* Ford Duraspark & EEC/TFI system histories. (Wikipedia)
* Why modern trucks use distributor-less ignition. (Wikipedia)
* EPA anti-tampering initiative; CARB rule definitions. (US EPA, law.cornell.edu)

If you want, tell me your exact year/engine (for example, Ò1995 5.8LÓ or Ò1997 7.5LÓ). I'll tailor this to your truck's ignition type and base-timing procedure.