Buy Oldsmobile Cutlass Starter Motors

The starter motor is a small but mighty electric motor that engages a pinion gear with the flywheel, cranks the engine, and then disengages once the engine runs on its own. (Wikipedia) Without it, you would still be hand-cranking like drivers did before electric starters were invented in the early 1900s. (WIRED)

• 1961-1963 F-85/Cutlass (215 V-8) - Uses an early GM-Delco "long" starter with straight-across bolt pattern.
• 1964-1977 A/G-body (330/350/400/455 V-8) - Standard GM large-frame starter; later years add a support brace. (taperformance.com)
• 1978-1987 G-body Cutlass Supreme (260/307 V-8) - Smaller high-torque option fits, but mounting bolts remain 3⁄8-16 at ~33 lb-ft. (JustAnswer)
• 1988-1999 Front-wheel-drive Cutlass Supreme/Ciera (2.5 L4, 3.1 & 3.4 V-6) - Compact starter (part #10465096) with integrated solenoid. (gmpartsgiant.com)

Always match the tooth-count (166 or 168) on the flywheel and check if you need inline or staggered bolt holes.

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A worn or damaged starter often shows:

• Single loud click with no crank.
• Slow, labored cranking even on a full battery.
• Grinding noise if the pinion gear or flywheel teeth are worn.
• Rising smoke or hot electrical smell after repeated attempts. (Firestone Complete Auto Care)

1. Battery first - Verify 12.6 V at rest and load-test.
2. Voltage drop test - More than 0.5 V loss on either cable hints at corrosion.
3. Bench-test starter - Most auto-electric shops can spin-test for draw and torque.
4. Inspect flywheel teeth - Uneven wear can mimic starter failure.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support vehicle safely.
3. Remove starter heat shield (if equipped) and brace.
4. Back out the two main bolts; support the unit with your free hand.
5. Label and transfer wires to the new starter's posts.
6. Re-install starter, torque bolts to spec, then attach brace.
7. Reconnect battery; verify crank sound and starter clearance.

• Use 33 lb-ft on the main bolts and 11 lb-ft on the support brace. (taperformance.com)
• Check pinion-to-flywheel lash with a paperclip (≈ 0.020″).
• Add or subtract shims until the pinion clears without binding.

Starters typically last 100 k-150 k miles or roughly 80 k-100 k start cycles, but heat, oil leaks, and frequent short trips can shorten that window. (C&C Automotive, CarParts.com)

An average Cutlass starter replacement runs $278 - $437 in total-about one-third labor and two-thirds parts-based on nationwide repair data. (RepairPal.com) Most rebuilt units carry a 12-month warranty; premium new units may offer limited lifetime coverage.

Aftermarket high-torque "mini" starters with 3.7- to 4.4-to-1 gear reduction crank up to 250 ft-lb, clear tight headers, and shave several pounds compared with the stock iron case. (Summit Racing) They're popular on Cutlass 442 and W-31 builds running higher compression.

A spent starter is mostly copper and steel. Recycling keeps these metals in circulation, saves mining energy, and prevents landfill waste-an easy win for both wallet and planet. (The Environmental Blog) Drop it at a scrap-metal facility or an auto-electric rebuilder who can reclaim the core.

The electric starter traces back to inventor Clyde J. Coleman, who patented his design in 1903; GM's Charles Kettering refined it, and by 1912 Cadillac models had banished hand-cranks forever. (WIRED)

• Oldsmobile Cutlass history
• Electric starter motor basics
• Auto-electric recycling guide
• Early starter patent story