Buy Pontiac Firebird Starter Motors

A Pontiac Firebird starter motor (also called a starter, engine starter, or cranking motor) is the small electric motor that turns the engine to start it. It draws power from the battery, uses a solenoid (built-in switch), and spins a small gear that meshes with the flywheel or flexplate. When you release the key or push-button, it disengages. For a simple primer on how starters work and common failure signs, see this technical overview. (parts.gmparts.com)

Firebird starter fitment changes by generation and engine family.
* 1967-1981: Mostly Pontiac V8s (326/350/400/455). Manual setups use a 166-tooth flywheel, which needs the matching starter gear. Starters for these Pontiac V8s differ from Chevrolet small-block units. (JustAnswer, Ram Clutches)
* 1982-1992: Mix of GM engines (2.5 I4, 2.8/3.1 V6, 5.0/5.7 small-block V8). Chevy small-block applications split by 153-tooth vs 168-tooth flexplate/flywheel; the bolt pattern on the starter nose is different for each. (JustAnswer)
* 1993-1997 (4th gen, LT1 V8 + V6 options): LT1 V8 uses a compact PMGR (gear-reduction) Delco design often referred to as PG260. (delcoremy.com)
* 1998-2002 (4th gen, LS1 V8 + 3.8 V6): LS1 cars use the later LS-pattern starter; it mounts low on the passenger side at the back of the engine. (ls1tech.com)

On 3rd- and 4th-gen Firebirds, the starter sits low on the passenger side, near the transmission bellhousing. You reach it from under the car. (, firebirdnation.com)

* Single click, no crank (often low battery or bad connection)
* Slow crank when hot (possible heat soak or high resistance)
* Grinding at start (starter-to-ring gear mismatch or spacing)
* Intermittent start (faulty solenoid, relay, ignition switch, or security inhibit)
A solid tech article lists starter symptoms and test basics. (parts.gmparts.com)

1. Battery at rest: about 12.6 V when fully charged. If you see around 12.2 V or less, charge the battery first. (au.renogy.com)
2. Cranking voltage: during crank, voltage should not drop below about 9.6 V at the starter feed. If it does, check cables and battery. (Bosch Auto Parts)
3. Voltage-drop checks: High resistance in grounds or the positive feed will cause slow cranking. A pro guide shows target drops (Å0.2 V on ground paths, Å0.3 V across the solenoid under load). (DENSO)

Most GM starter solenoids have:
* ÒBÓ (battery) large stud: main positive cable from the battery.
* ÒSÓ (start) small terminal: trigger wire from the ignition switch/relay-commonly purple in GM harnesses. Harness docs label this as the Òstarter 'S' terminal.Ó (painlessperformance.com)

Some Firebirds use GM's VATS/Pass-Key system. If the system doesn't see the right key signal, it can inhibit the starter relay and you'll get a no-crank. A locksmith training brief explains that VATS can disable the starter, fuel, or ignition until the module sees the correct signal. (Lockmasters)

* Pontiac V8 ('67-'81): Manual flywheels typically have 166 teeth. Match the starter pinion to this ring gear count. Performance flywheel makers list 166-tooth parts for Pontiac 326-455 engines. (Centerforce Clutch, Original Parts Group Inc.)
* Chevy small-block (SBC) setups (various years): 153-tooth vs 168-tooth flywheels use different starter nose bolt patterns (straight vs staggered). Use a starter that matches your tooth count. A tech blog from a drivetrain manufacturer explains the difference clearly.
* LT1 (1993-97) Firebird: Compact PG260 gear-reduction design is typical. (delcoremy.com)
* LS1 (1998-2002) Firebird: LS-family starters commonly interchange across many LS car/truck applications, but always confirm clocking, bolt type, and nose fit before installing. (ls1tech.com)

GM starters sometimes need a thin shim for correct gear engagement. Check clearance between the starter pinion and the ring gear using a paper-clip or feeler method; typical target is about 0.020-0.035 in. Multiple manufacturer guides and tech articles demonstrate this. (MotorTrend, MSProdImages)

On F-body cars with headers or tight exhaust routing, starters can get heat-soaked and crank slowly when hot. Good practices: add a starter heat shield, ensure clean/short battery and ground paths, and consider a high-torque mini starter (gear-reduction) for more clearance and less heat soak. (parts.gmparts.com, DENSO)

Always tighten to the factory spec for your engine/year. As examples:
* 1993-1997 LT1 Firebird: starter mounting bolts ~34 ft-lb (46 Nám).
(For later LS1 cars, consult the service manual for your exact year; many GM LS documents list nearby fasteners at ~37 ft-lb, but follow the specific service procedure for the starter on your car.)

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise/support the car safely.
3. Unplug the small ÒSÓ terminal and remove the battery cable from the starter.
4. Remove the mounting bolts; lower the starter.
5. Install the new unit; check gear clearance (shim if needed).
6. Reconnect wiring; torque bolts to spec.
7. Reconnect battery and test.
   A step-by-step F-body starter replacement guide shows location, access, and reassembly. (ls1tech.com)

* High-torque ÒminiÓ gear-reduction starters help on cars with headers, high compression, or tight clearance. They're lighter and can be clocked for best fit (some work for both 153- and 168-tooth SBC applications; LS uses a different pattern).
* Heat shields and proper cable sizing reduce voltage drop and heat soak. A pro diagnostic article outlines voltage-drop targets on both positive and ground sides you can use after the upgrade. (DENSO)

* Model-year and engine overview (helps identify which starter style you need). (JustAnswer)
* Starter diagnostics & symptoms (clear, multi-brand tech primer). (parts.gmparts.com)
* Voltage-drop testing and target numbers (ground and positive side). (DENSO)
* Cranking voltage minimum (9.6 V rule of thumb). (Bosch Auto Parts)
* 153 vs 168 tooth and bolt pattern differences (important for Chevy-based engines).
* Pontiac V8 166-tooth flywheel note (for vintage Firebirds). (Ram Clutches)

Match the starter to your Firebird's engine family and ring-gear tooth count, verify clean power/ground and correct gear mesh, and use the proper torque. With those basics right, your starter motor will crank fast and reliably.